An “island” in the North Sea: Nobody here has ever had Corona – Politics abroad

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“We have zero Covid cases in Sealand,” says Liam Bates proudly. “I think we are one of the few countries in the world that can currently claim that.”

The one spared from the pandemic State is an old military platform in the North Sea that a British family declared an independent principality 54 years ago. Since then, she has defied the London authorities – and recently also Corona.

THE CRAZY STORY OF SEALAND!

The way to Sealand is arduous. Eleven kilometers by boat from the southeast coast of England, then visitors – with a negative Corona test in their pockets – are pulled up on a kind of swing. Two huge hollow concrete towers support the platform that the British military built for anti-aircraft defense during World War II.

Photo: BEN STANSALL / AFP

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The self-proclaimed Prince Liam Bates reaches the platformPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

It was supposed to be demolished after the end of the war because it was outside British territorial waters. But when that did not happen, Bates’ grandfather Roy, businessman and operator of a pirate station, occupied the platform.

In 1967 he proclaimed the Principality of Sealand – with its own constitution, flag and anthem. The first thing visitors get is a stamp in their passport.

Besucher bekommen einen Stempel in ihren PassPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

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Visitors get a stamp in their passportPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

“Freedom from Everything”

Once at the top, the windswept platform looks like a ship with a new deck and a neat warehouse with tools, paints and hot dog cans. In the kitchen there are potted plants and china plates, the rooms are furnished with wallpaper, carpets and books.

Liam Bates is 33 years old and one of the Princes of Sealand. He runs the day-to-day business while his older brother James runs the family’s fishing and canning business.

Sealand keeps afloat selling nobility titles. Trading takes place online through the website. A “Lord of Sealand” is available for 29.99 pounds (35 euros), the duke title is significantly more expensive at 499.99 pounds (583 euros). Business is going well, says Liam. “Good enough to keep Sealand running, and that’s really expensive.”

Sealand does not pay any taxes to the UK state. It’s about “freedom from everything,” says Liam. “About religion, opinions, all kinds of guidelines.” Still, the Bates’ only visit their principality once in a while.

In der KüchePhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

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In Sealand’s kitchenPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

Engineer Joe Hamill and Michael Barrington, Head of Homeland Security at Sealand, wait for the platform in two-week shifts. During the lockdown, Hamill volunteered to spend eleven weeks on the high seas.

“That was real isolation,” says the 58-year-old. “I think my mental state has suffered a bit.”

At least Sealand is much more comfortable today than it was 50 years ago. Wind turbines and solar panels have replaced the old diesel generators, one of which started a devastating fire in 2012.

Der Kappellenraum in einem der BetontürmePhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

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The chapel in one of the concrete towersPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

In the concrete towers there is a chapel for all religions, a leisure room with a pool table and fitness equipment, and a meeting room with a whiteboard. Some rooms are below the surface of the water. It can be clearly heard when the waves hit the walls.

Joe Hamill liest im Wohnzimmer ein BuchPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

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Joe Hamill is reading a book in the living roomPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

German sent mercenaries

In the early 2000s, a US company installed a large server system on Sealand. Parts of the failed project can still be seen. It is “part of our national history,” says Liam Bates.

A small prison cell with an iron bed frame is another part. It once housed the state’s only prisoner: in 1978, during the “great coup of Sealand”.

After an argument with Roy Bates, a German businessman sent mercenaries to storm the platform. Roy Bates and his son Michael took Sealand back in a helicopter at dawn and arrested the businessman’s lawyer.

11 Kilometer von der englischen Küste entferntPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

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Sealand is eleven kilometers from the English coastPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

The “coup” was not the only violent incident in the history of the principality. In 1968 Roy and Michael Bates were charged with gun offenses after shooting at passing ships. Liam Bates also knows how to use guns. His father Michael taught him that, he says.

“We can protect ourselves.”

Das Meer um die Plattform immer im Blick: Joe Hamill ist für die Sicherheit verantwortlichPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

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The sea around the platform is always in view: Joe Hamill is responsible for safetyPhoto: BEN STANSALL / AFP

The British authorities let the self-appointed princes do their thing in their micronation, which is not recognized by any country. The platform has officially been in British waters since 1987, but London is not actively trying to get it back.

“I think they pretend we don’t exist and hope that one day we will pack up and go,” says Liam Bates. “Which of course will never happen.”

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