They are small works of art in themselves

2023-05-13 10:15:01

HomeBerlinPop Kudamm presents scarves by Rudi Gernreich: They are small works of art in themselves

They are often wrongly labeled as aunty accessories and accessories for clothing: silk scarves. An exhibition in Charlottenburg is now paying tribute to her beauty.

Sebastian Ahlefeld

US military rank insignia adorn a silk scarf series by Rudi Gernreich. To be seen in the exhibition “Tutti Frutti … Oh Rudi!” in the gallery Pop Kudamm.Sebastian Ahlefeld

Huge colorfully printed silk sails, like waves in the ocean, rippled through the built from shipping containers Galerie Pop Kudamm blow. In between, the original silk scarves in various sizes, reminiscent of ship signal flags. The wind blowing through the gallery brings the installation to life; eccentrically staged by the Berlin stylists Frank Wilde and Paul Graves, under the curatorial direction of Karin Kruse.

In the exhibition „Tutti Frutti … Oh Rudi!“ Fashion, design and art lovers can expect the only complete collection of the formidable silk scarves from design icons Rudy Gernreich. The exhibition brings together the luxurious creations with Gernreich’s unique colours, patterns and prints, also celebrating the aesthetics of the 1960s and early 1970s.

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image series

Like waves in the ocean, the huge lengths of fabric lie across the gallery POP KUDAMM and in between are original silk scarves by Rudi Gernreich.Sebastian Ahlefeld

You also have to look up to see the details.Sebastian Ahlefeld

Printed end towels with patterns from the 60s and 70s, which are still a must-have in fashion today.Sebastian Ahlefeld

Eccentric depiction of a silk scarf by Rudi Gernreich in the POP KUDAMM gallery.Sebastian Ahlefeld

Bund and playful, Gernreich’s silk scarves also leave a message for his admirers.Sebastian Ahlefeld

The two exhibition organizers Paul Gravev (left) and Frank Wilde.Sebastian Ahlefeld

“Scarves are actually decried as old ladies’ accessories, with which one spices up a boring outfit and freshens it up. But for the trained eye, these silk scarves are small works of art that can stand alone,” says Wilde. The original exhibits all belong to his private Gernreich collection, which is said to be the largest in the world.

Wilde has been collecting the scarves since the mid-1990s and owns around 140 scarves by fashion designer Rudi Gernreich. To his knowledge, the most extensive collection in the world. At the exhibition, visitors can see the full collection. But Wilde is also a collector of other brands: “I’ve been collecting for 30 years. Scarves, such as those by Hermés, Saint Laurent and Balmain, are designed by artists and some of these are very rare pieces,” the stylist and costume designer continues.

For Wilde, who is also known for his work as a queer activist and winner of the CSD Award 2022, Gernreich’s designs are a great inspiration. Born in the 1920s, Gernreich was gay himself and his designs can now be understood as a means of activism.

Wilde: “The special thing about Gernreich is that the scarves also have a message beyond pure visual beauty. He was an Austrian Jew who fled Hitler, and he never came out as gay in his life. That only came out afterwards, also that he supported the gay freedom movement.” This repression and this desire for freedom can be found in his scarves. Gernreich donated his estate Mattachine Societythe first gay rights movement in America.

United Archives International/imago

Rudy Gernreich

Born August 8, 1922 in Vienna, died April 21 in Los Angeles. Gernreich was an Austrian fashion designer. After fleeing to the USA, he became one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century. His designs were unusual and daring like his ideas for Topless-Mode (sog. Monokini), the “Total Look” or the Unisex-Fashion. Today, these are part of the natural fashion repertoire, but led to violent opposition in the 1960s, which, however, brought him great popularity.

“Tutti Frutti … Oh Rudi!” is an exhibition that draws attention to what is supposedly insignificant. And it goes beyond fashion because it shows the political dimension that necklaces can have. “In fashion, silk scarves are an accessory that belongs to clothing. But I think the silk scarf deserves to finally be exhibited in its beauty and dignity as a central piece,” Wilde explains at the end of the vernissage opening on Thursday, where the party continued into the night to the sound of the Ukrainian DJane Ali Liar became.

The exhibition organizers Paul Graves (left), next to them Karin Kruse and Frank Wilde together with photographer Lukas Rotter.Sebastian Ahlefeld

PAUL GRAVES

Paul Graves studied art, is the director of numerous award-winning music videos and founder of his own fashion label. He is best known for his still life photography, which has been published worldwide.

FRANK WILLE

From Herbert Grönemeyer to Tokio Hotel to Sarah Connor, Frank created the looks of German pop icons and is still a constant when it comes to style and developing visual images. He is also an LGBTQ activist from the very beginning and is known for his stylish protest photos against the war in Ukraine, with which he reaches over 100,000 people online every day as an influencer.

KARIN KRUSE

As a co-founder of the Tristesse Deluxe gallery, she curated and designed popular exhibitions of the 2000s. (including “Tristesse Deluxe goes Wall Street”, “The Future of Past”). Afterwards she curated thematic exhibitions such as “Family No Family”, “Frontside / Backside” and co-curated for the Kreuzberg art window Woma – Window of Modern Art. For over 20 years she has been co-owner of a Berlin-based talent agency.

The exhibition “Tutti Frutti … Oh Rudi!”

Pop Kudamm
Kurfurstendamm 229
10719 Berlin

12.5.2023 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. / 13.5.2023 2 p.m. to 8 p.m
May 17, 2023 to May 29, 2023 (Wednesday to Sunday) 2 p.m. to 8 p.m