2023-07-11 12:00:00
What are the three recipes imagined by chef Michel Sarran for the American fast-food brand worth? “Le Point” placed an order. (Very) mixed results.
By Hugo de Saint Phalle Michel Sarran’s burgers go on the grill. © CHOUSSY EMMANUELLE/SIPA / SIPA / CHOUSSY EMMANUELLE/SIPA Published on 07/11/2023 at 12:00
What fly stung them? After the chefs Thierry Marx and Yoann Conte, four Michelin stars between them, recently in a duel on M6 to try to reproduce the Big Mac recipe identically in Snack Masters, here is Michel Sarran who draws his collaboration with Burger King. Chefs have the right to work with whomever they wish. The late Joël Robuchon, still a standard bearer for certain ready meals from the Fleury Michon brand, would not say otherwise.
But, while food has become a subject of public health, this kind of initiative leaves a bitter taste. Both figuratively and literally. Because, yes, we tasted them, these novelties from Burger King, the “Masters”, signed by the former juror of Top Boss. Master Sarran Chicken? Master Sarran Goat? Master Sarran Mozzarella? As we hesitated, we ordered all three.
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The Master Sarran Chicken: 5/10
Recipe ? A breaded chicken cutlet, a few tomato slices, a slice of mozzarella, arugula leaves and a pesto sauce. The burger world will not be upset, of course. Tomatoes, tasteless like mozzarella, bring nothing. But the breading of the meat remains crispy, the flesh almost soft, and the sauce nicely coats everything. The treat? You don’t have to push. Honestly, we expected worse. The average.
Le Master Sarran Mozzarella : 3/10
Things are getting seriously tough. And yet, we take almost the same ones and start over: tomatoes and mozzarella, always tasteless, arugula leaves, always tired, pesto sauce. But the chicken cutlet gave way to a 150 g ground beef steak. At this level of overcooking and suffocating texture, we rival the best hospital meal trays. Nothing to wake up all this, it’s bland. Don’t get mad at the small caramelized onions, they have nothing to do with it.
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The Master Sarran Goat: 2/10
The highlight of the show! Apart from the mozzarella, therefore, it compiles all the ingredients of its predecessor. And its faults are sublimated by a slice of goat cheese whose pasty texture mixes with the minced meat in an improbable globi-boulga. At 10.50 euros per sandwich (12.90 euros on a menu), the price is not even really competitive compared to quality brands. If the experience tempts you despite everything, hurry up, it stops at the end of the month. And good appetite, of course !
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