2023-07-16 09:04:40
by Elena Meli
They are a sign of the process of «senescence» which takes place throughout the organism. Improving your outward appearance really does slow down aging. Here’s how to deal with tanning and anti-wrinkle creams
They are a common concern of both women and men, hated by all because they make it impossible to conceal age: even if we falsified the identity card, wrinkles would be there to remind us that we are no longer very young.
What is “senescence”
And yet, they may not be the result of time advancing but a cause, in themselves, of the aging of the organism: according to this theory, which has been circulating for some time among experts, when the skin is no longer young, it releases molecules into circulation capable of to accelerate aging also in other organs and tissues. It would all be the fault of the senescence process: when the cells are old, they enter a sort of quiescence in which they are no longer able to divide, because if they did, a degeneration in the sense of tumor would be very probable; the negative side of this method for «sterilizing» the risk of cancer is the production of inflammatory substances by senescent cells, in fact toxic cocktails which can damage the surrounding tissues and which, according to the most recent theories, can «travel» in the whole organism through the blood and therefore going to compromise not only the epidermis and dermis, but also distant organs and tissues.
Wrinkles show the state of health
The presence of senescent cells is believed to be a contributing cause of various age-related diseases, from cataracts to arthrosis, and is massive in aging skin because the skin is the first barrier against the aggression of pollutants, smoke, sun, all elements that accelerate senescence: on the skin this manifests itself as well-evident wrinkles, which are therefore the sign of an over-production of aging substances around the body. The link between wrinkles and health is quite close: according to a recent research, elderly people with a more youthful appearance for their age also have a lower risk of having problems such as cataracts, osteoporosis, hearing loss or chronic bronchopneumopathies, and also boast a better cognitive functioning. Furthermore, some time ago, a survey of over 70s indicated that fewer wrinkles are associated with lower mortality in the 12 years to come.
Preventing wrinkles helps the rest of the body
Is there therefore only to worry if looking in the mirror we see wrinkles around the nose and mouth? No, because according to this same theory, preventing wrinkles and/or reducing them can help to “rejuvenate” the rest of the body at least a little. Norma Cameli, head of Corrective Dermatology and Laser Therapy of the Physiotherapy Hospitals of Rome and member of the Italian Society of Dermatology and Sexually Transmitted Diseases (SIDeMaST), observes: «Wrinkles are part of a general aging process, everything is connected: the the exposome, i.e. the set of environmental and lifestyle elements to which we are exposed throughout our lives, affects the rate of skin aging. For example, by increasing the amount of free radicals present in the skin, it causes skin cells to release pro-inflammatory cytokines and metalloproteinases, enzymes that degrade collagen and elastic fibers. The result is a chronic micro-inflammation which, however, does not only concern the skin ».
The skin-brain axis
There are no barriers, the inflammation of the skin that leads it to be visibly “old” is the same that elsewhere contributes to processes that age us and make us ill. The direction of these processes that link skin aging to that of the rest of the body would also lie in the brain, according to the studies of the neuroendocrinologist Claudia Cavadas of the University of Coimbra, in Portugal: the hypothalamus and the hippocampus, critical areas which as the years go by, they work worse, clearly affecting the aging processes, they receive signals from the skin through what Cavadas calls the skin-brain axis. In mice exposed to an excess of UVB rays (as happens when you exaggerate with the sun) the hippocampus stops producing new cells, moving towards senescence. When this happens, pro-aging signals also reach the rest of the body and, for example, the production of sex hormones is reduced; researchers are investigating to confirm that the pro-inflammatory molecules released by the skin that “crumples” in wrinkles are directly responsible for aging phenomena elsewhere, but the general idea is that reducing wrinkles is not just an aesthetic act, but a important part of staying biologically young and healthy for a long time. Cameli agrees, underlining that this is the case «first of all because, by preventing wrinkles, we act on elements that are involved in the general mechanisms of aging».
What causes wrinkles
Exposure to the sun, to environmental contaminants and pollutants and also to the blue light of the screens of electronic devices (which increases the formation of free radicals), are all elements that favor wrinkles; the same goes for smoking and alcohol, an unhealthy diet low in antioxidants, lack of sleep or even climate change, all elements that damage the skin but also the body in general, which therefore must be fought to maintain themselves healthy overall.
How to protect the skin
The prevention of wrinkles then also passes through photoprotection with the use of anti-UV sunscreens which, however, to work, must be used well and therefore applied in an adequate quantity (the protection indicated on the package is guaranteed with 2 milligrams of product per centimeter square, ed), spreading them 20 minutes before exposing yourself to the sun and then repeating every 2 hours. Without forgetting often neglected parts of the body, such as hands and feet, and the enormous importance of mechanical protection: when we are outdoors, especially in summer, using a hat and sunglasses or covering up with T-shirts is very useful for reducing the photo- aging. It is also essential to keep the skin well hydrated, because when it is not, its barrier function against environmental pollutants is lost, which can thus penetrate more », continues the dermatologist. “It is also useful to protect the skin “from the inside”: a diet rich in vitamins and antioxidants, possibly with the help of supplements that provide additional doses of protective substances such as coenzyme Q10 or resveratrol, can help to keep the skin healthy”.
Anti-wrinkle that will really rejuvenate
Instead, we have to wait before the so-called senolytics and sinomodulators are available, drugs that act directly on senescent cells that contribute to skin aging and beyond, eliminating them in the first case or preventing them from releasing their toxins into the circulation, in the second : they are being studied in various conditions related to aging and studies are now starting for use as an anti-wrinkle agent capable of “rejuvenating” the whole organism. Research by the Drexel University College of Medicine in Philadelphia, for example, demonstrated on a small group of over 40 volunteers that applying rapamycin, a sinomodulator, to the skin reduces the markers of cellular senescence, increases the amount of collagen in the dermis and ultimately improves the appearance of the skin; another experiment on mice proved that metformin, an antidiabetic with sinomodulatory effects, can reduce damage from photoaging. In animals it has also been observed that using a senolytic to eliminate senescent cells from the skin increases the proliferation of stem cells in the hair follicles, indicating that processes typical of young age can perhaps be awakened. However, there will be a lot to study before it is possible to use these substances in humans and the neuroendocrinologist Cavadas stressed that “miracles cannot or should be expected, we may perhaps be able to slow down the rate of aging but not really rejuvenate”.
How to use sunscreens
For this reason, even today, the best way to long-lasting smooth skin remains prevention with a healthy lifestyle and the right photoprotection which, as Cameli reminds us, «also serves on cloudy days or under an umbrella, because the sun’s rays they still get on the skin. The same goes for those who go to the mountains because the sun is even more intense at high altitudes and, if anything, a more powerful filter is needed. Then pay attention to the labels: when you read “100 protection” one is tempted to believe that it is a total screen, which with a single application allows you to spend hours in the sun. This is not the case, because the filters present in these products correspond to 50+: all sunscreens, of any kind, must be reapplied regularly and always after taking a bath. There’s no excuse not to use them: today there are many formulations for all needs, from gel products for areas covered with hair to sticks to be applied on scars, which must be carefully protected. Self-tanners, on the other hand, do not protect as they only work by reacting with keratinocytes, cells present in the skin, to give an artificial color to the epidermis; even being tanned does not protect you from sun damage, because it gives a mild protection and therefore does not exempt you from using sunscreens», concludes the dermatologist.
Do wrinkle creams really work?
In the bathroom of anyone over the age of thirty, it’s hard not to come across an anti-wrinkle cream. The choice is vast, but do they really work? «The answer is yes: they restore the skin barrier and supply effective active ingredients», says Norma Cameli, head of Corrective Dermatology and Laser Therapy at the IFO in Rome. «Retinol, for example, is really useful against wrinkles, vitamin C brightens the skin and has an antioxidant action. However, you need constancy and taking care of your skin from an early age, cleaning it correctly: cleansing your skin every day with the most suitable products for your skin type is the first step to keeping it young for a long time. Let’s think of Asian women, for whom removing make-up is a daily ritual: they look better than Western women, who often don’t cleanse themselves and accumulate layers upon layers of products, having the opposite effect, the so-called “angry skin” which refuses excess creams and becomes more sensitive or even allergic. For every skin type, lifestyle, age, the right cleaning routine and moisturizing products must be identified: in this way wrinkles can be prevented and reduced». However, if the signs of aging are already clearly visible, what can be done to reduce them? “There are many possibilities: you can’t go back to the look of your twenties, but your skin can improve a lot,” replies Cameli. «Regaining tone and firmness, deeply hydrating, minimizing dilated pores, reducing spots are all possible interventions that reduce the visual impact of wrinkles. However, summer is not the right time to intervene with the most demanding and effective treatments such as lasers, exfoliating peels, microneedling because they make the skin more sensitive to the sun. In this period biostimulation can be done with hyaluronic acid, which “plumps”, taking care not to expose yourself to the sun for a few days after the operation; all other anti-aging operations are to be planned from September onwards, identifying the most suitable treatment together with an expert doctor», concludes the dermatologist.
July 16, 2023 (change July 16, 2023 | 09:04)
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