Massive Surströmming Demand Continues to Challenge Producers
Bergsviken, Sweden – Surströmming enthusiasts eagerly lined up outside the store in Bergsviken today, anxiously awaiting the long-awaited surströmming premiere. The residents of Pite showed their determination by buffing their way forward in the queue, with one man going as far as lying straight across the fridge to reach a couple of cans. However, meeting the high demand for the fermented herring delicacy continues to be a challenge for producers.
According to Jan Söderström, who runs the saltery his father started in Sundsvall, they have been tirelessly chasing sturgeon along the entire east coast to meet consumer demands this year. While they managed to acquire 20 tonnes of flounder, doubling last year’s amount of 10 tonnes, it fell drastically short of their target. Söderström lamented that they obtained only a fifth of what they had aimed for, stating, “We cannot continue with this assault on the Bothnian Sea.”
However, this strategy is not unique to Söderström’s saltery. It is part of the EU’s fisheries policy, known as the “maximum sustainable harvest.” The policy aims to extract as much fish as possible without risking the collapse of fish stocks, akin to thinning out a carrot patch to allow the remaining ones to grow faster, explains Ulf Bergström, a researcher at the Department of Aquatic Resources at SLU.
Nevertheless, there are divided opinions on the sustainability of this fishing policy. Many researchers, including Bergström, argue that the EU’s fishing quotas are set too high, leading to the risk of stock collapse. Climate change and warmer seas further complicate the calculations, as ecosystems function differently than before, making miscalculations more common. Therefore, Bergström insists on having greater safety margins.
Back at the saltery in Sundsvall, Jan Söderström and a group of young workers are busy packaging this year’s surströmming. While the 20 tonnes obtained is an improvement from last year’s production, it is considerably lower than previous levels. Söderström expressed his disappointment in politicians for not taking scientists’ warnings seriously and reducing fishing quotas. Frustrated, he suggested a complete ban on larger fishing boats, which he calls “monster trawlers.”
The consequences of the surströmming crisis extend beyond the industry’s survival. Flounder is the most common fish in the Baltic Sea, and its stock in the Gulf of Bothnia has halved since the 1990s. It plays a crucial role as a keystone species, serving as food for larger fish, birds, and seals. Therefore, the collapse of the flounder population could have disastrous consequences for ecosystems. Bergström noted that seals in the area are already becoming thinner due to the shortage of flounder.
Jan Söderström fears that without a reduction in fishing quotas, he may have to close down the saltery due to poor profitability. Similar concerns are echoed by other producers in Sweden. The fate of both the industry and the delicate balance of the Baltic Sea’s ecosystems is at stake.
Additional information:
– The annual fishing quotas in the EU are decided by the EU Council, based on the Commission’s proposal.
– Sweden’s position during quota negotiations is ultimately determined by the government and the Minister for Rural Affairs, taking into account data from the Maritime and Water Authority and advice from the International Marine Research Council.
– Minister for Rural Affairs Peter Kullgren has suggested moving out the trawl limit to protect coastal areas and developing an action plan to strengthen the fishing industry.
– Sources: Department of Aquatic Resources at SLU