Japan: In Shikoku, islands became art resorts

by time news

2023-10-21 07:13:07

The island of Shikoku

Countless valleys and rivers wind their way through the mountainous landscape of Shikoku. The smallest of Japan’s four main islands, it’s ideal for outdoor activities, whether white-water rafting in Koboke Canyon or hiking Mount Tsurugi. The island is also a region; With only 3.6 million inhabitants, it is often ignored by travelers to Japan, even though it is only a few kilometers away from the main island of Honshu.

The residents lead a quiet, rural life; In larger cities like Matsuyama or Takamatsu, the clocks tick slower than in Tokyo. Historically, the distance to the central government is also great: in the 1860s, several clans in southern Japan came together to rebel against the military shogunate in Edo (now Tokyo) and to abolish the feudal system. That succeeded. One of the leaders, Sakamoto Ryoma, came from Shikoku, and a museum in his hometown of Kochi is dedicated to him.

The island is also known for its traditions. Example of craftsmanship: In Tokushima and Kagawa people still dye with real indigo. If you’re not afraid to get your hands dirty, you can also blue your own textiles there – for example at the Nagao-Orifu dye works in the city of Tokushima.

Source: Infographic WELT

And in the town of Kotohira there is Japan’s oldest functioning Kabuki theater. Dance theater from the Edo period is performed here. The mechanics from 1835 are completely preserved, the rotating stage and the trap doors are powered by people.

Works by Yayoi Kusama and other artists

Naoshima is an island off Shikoku – and famous for two oversized pumpkins by the pop art artist Yayoi Kusama, now 94. The yellow sculpture, destroyed in a typhoon in 2021, was restored in 2022. Its red counterpart has been standing at the ferry dock since 2006. According to the artist, a red ray of sunshine searched the vastness of the universe before transforming into this red pumpkin in the sea off Naoshima.

The Benesse House Museum on the island of Naoshima was designed by the Japanese star architect Tadao Ando

Quelle: picture alliance/Photononstop/Danièle Schneider

The island in the Seto Inland Sea is famous for its art. There are high-class art museums and installations spread across the entire island. This is thanks to the Japanese billionaire Soichiro Fukutake, who had the idea of ​​turning Naoshima and two neighboring islands into art resorts in the 1980s.

These are the highlights Chichu Art Museum and that Benesse House Museum. Both were designed by the Japanese star architect Tadao Ando, ​​who is known for his play with light and shadow and his innovative use of concrete.

One of the oldest hot spring baths in Japan

The Dogo Bathhouse in Matsuyama is one of the most famous and oldest thermal baths in Japan, which are called onsen there. Even the imperial family has visited it again and again over the past 1,400 years; there is even a bathhouse exclusively for the emperor. The stone pools and tatami-straw matted relaxation rooms in the main building exude the elegance and dignity of a traditional Japanese onsen.

Even the imperial family visited the Dogo bathhouse in Matsuyama repeatedly over the centuries

Quelle: Sean Pavone / Alamy Stock Photo

Anyone who immerses themselves in the 42 degree warm spring water can take their own personal relaxation journey to ancient Japan – or imagine themselves in fantastic worlds: The architecture of the bathhouse served as the inspiration for the magical onsen from the masterful anime film “Spirited Away” by director Hayao Miyazaki.

In addition to the Dogo Onsen, Shikoku has plenty of other magical bathhouses, many of them hidden in the hinterland.

Udon from Kagawa are special noodles

In no other prefecture in Japan are as many udon noodles eaten as in Kagawa on Shikoku – twice as much as the average. A monk allegedly brought the thick wheat noodles back from a study trip to Xian, China, 1,200 years ago.

Eating udon noodles with chopsticks takes learning. The little one is doing quite well

Quelle: Getty Images/FanPro

Because there are too many farms and too little rain in Kagawa to grow rice on a large scale, farmers prefer to plant wheat, which is used to make udon. The special properties of Udon from Kagawa are its bite and its angular cut. They are served in fish broth with sliced ​​green onions and pureed ginger; warm in winter and cold in summer.

Pilgrimage from temple to temple

There are 88 temples on the Buddhist Pilgerroute Shikoku henro, spread across the entire island over a distance of around 1200 kilometers. According to legend, the historic pilgrimage goes back to the monk Kukai, who founded the Shingon Buddhist movement as well as numerous temples and public schools in the 9th century AD.

A pilgrim arrives at Sankaku-ji, the 65th temple on the Shikoku henro pilgrimage route

Quelle: Getty Images/David Madison

The number of temples is probably based on the 88 earthly desires of man known in Japanese Buddhism. The journey begins at Ryozenji Temple, in the far west. From there we go clockwise to the last temple, Okuboji. You should plan one to two months for the entire route.

The quote

“The footprints of wild geese remain in the mud of the rice field”

Haiku written by Shiki Masaoka (1867–1902). The haiku is Japan’s most famous literary export hit; it is written all over the world in different languages. The short poem is composed of a 5-7-5 sequence of mores (Japanese syllables).

This haiku reflects the rural character of Shikoku: after the autumn harvest, the wild geese look for food in the swampy rice fields and nest in the mud.

Masaoka, born in Matsuyama on Shikoku, is revered as one of Japan’s most famous haiku poets. He initiated a haiku renaissance at the end of the 19th century, when this lyrical form was in danger of disappearing, and gave haiku its name as an independent genre. His other poems are more emotional, they also deal with modern topics (such as baseball). Thanks to Masaoka, Matsuyama is still considered the haiku city in Japan.

Bizarre, record-breaking, typical: You can find further parts of our regional studies series here.

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In order to display embedded content, your revocable consent to the transmission and processing of personal data is necessary, as the providers of the embedded content require this consent as third party providers [In diesem Zusammenhang können auch Nutzungsprofile (u.a. auf Basis von Cookie-IDs) gebildet und angereichert werden, auch außerhalb des EWR]. By setting the switch to “on”, you agree to this (revocable at any time). This also includes your consent to the transfer of certain personal data to third countries, including the USA, in accordance with Art. 49 (1) (a) GDPR. You can find more information about this. You can revoke your consent at any time using the switch and privacy at the bottom of the page.
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