2023-11-10 09:00:00
Of all the cuisines represented in the capital, the transalpine is one of the best established. Chic or more rustic trattorias, fashionable or original pizzerias, osterias, luxury restaurants… When it comes to Italian restaurants in Paris, there is no shortage of choice. This is not a guarantee of quality. To find the best, you have to test!
And as the 2023 culinary season showed, new products are springing up every week in the four corners of the city. Among our last forks, here are some Italian nuggets. If we loved them, it was as much for the contents of their plate as for their personality.
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It is the prototype of the address for friends who want a moment of flirting withaperitif and can end – or even begin – around one or more pizzas. At Zapi, we don’t skimp on the cocktails, spritz in mind, nor on the pizzaswhile remaining on the great classic of margherita to the four cheeses. No unpleasant surprises in sight either on the plate or in the bill, rather calm in this epicenter of chic Parisian life that the 1st arrondissement has become. All in a setting decorated with spicy 70’s references between green enameled tiles, ribbed wood and velvet. All with a friendly side that is not unpleasant: at the helm, we find Nicolas Saltiel, owner of the Addresses Hotels collection and César Alma from Colonia. G.D.
7, rue du 29-Juillet, Ier. Card: approx. €40. zapi-paris.com
Playing with clichés is a perilous exercise. Pitfall avoided at the Madonna Osteria. The decoration undoubtedly addresses the aesthetic codes of Italy, even boasting a Milanese character – between dark woods and green velvets, white tablecloths and bar – but infusing them with a French spirit. It must be said that the place is the work of two French, Eva-Louise and Alex Laporte, who bring a chic bistro touch. On the menu side, a cuisine which effectively recalls the taste of the Milanese for the classics established between mixed fried particularly fresh, spaghetti with sea urchins in season, osso buco or tiramisu, assembled at the table, in a friendly “grand restaurant” style. Perfect execution at prices smart enough not to scare off local customers or those in a hurry for lunch. As to beautiful people, they have already found the way to this address without showing off but which has panache. G.D.
52, rue La Fayette, 9th. Card: approx. 45 euros. madonna-osteria.fr
Le Perchoir Ménilmontant changes residence. After Céline Pham, Adrien Cachot, Manon Fleury and Alice Arnoux, the perched table in the 11th arrondissement welcomes Vecchio, by chef Gianmarco Gorni, associated with Hubert Niveleau, where Italian-New York cuisine is in the spotlight. No more single menus. Here, the dishes are sung to the tunes of tarantella: the meatballs and their marinara sauce (tomatoes, onions, garlic and aromatic herbs) are dripping with deliciousness, like the linguine Alfredo (cream, parmesan, garlic, rosemary). However, we will avoid the deluge of fresh truffle offered as an extra. For dessert, the choice is difficult between the power and subtlety of the sorbet lemon (lemon) and vodka or the guilty pleasure of chocolate donut, a chocolate donut drizzled with chocolate-hazelnut sauce. As for the atmosphere, the Italian-disco soundtrack makes you want to finish the meal by dancing on the table. J.-R.
4, rue Camille-Crespin-du-Gast, 11th. Card: €30-65. leperchoir.fr
Below Père-Lachaise, the discreet Villa Riberolle, a lane of damaged cobblestones full of atmosphere, has transformed in recent years into a gourmet and trendy island. After Caché, its marine cuisine and its wow decor, after Amagat, its Catalan tapas and its terrace like a tavern dream, here is the latest, Santa Silvia, a contemporary trattoria with good spirit, opened just a year ago. THE veal with tuna sauce arrives glamorized, from thick slices of semi-cooked bluefin tuna to the revival of traditional strips of veal. Fresh lobster tagliolini – half a specimen, perfectly cooked – burst into a real bisque with a full-bodied taste. The tiramisu plays cute, revealing its sweet trappings under a spherical siphon of mascarpone. Of the three addresses, it is the most discreet. But she also has a lovely story to tell. That of Italian cuisine that is both simple and sophisticated, confident in its products and its purpose. HSP
22, villa Riberolle, 20e. Letter: env. €50. santasilviaparis.fr
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