2024-03-14 03:45:10
In a pop-up store of the Chinese fashion brand Shein, in Paris, May 4, 2023. CHRISTOPHE ARCHAMBAULT / AFP
“A bikini for 7 euros, a dress for 4.50 euros, a crop top for 2.80 euros”, lists Léa Perigois, 21, while scrolling through her latest Shein order on her phone. Seventy-two euros for thirteen items. “A super good deal”, declares the nursing student. In three years, she has purchased more than sixty items on the Chinese platform, which puts seven thousand two hundred new products online every day.
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This addictive shopping model is in the sights of a bill tabled by the MP (Horizons) for Haute-Savoie Anne-Cécile Violland. After a favorable reception in the Sustainable Development Committee on March 7, the text, examined in the National Assembly on Thursday March 14, has already received the support of the government.
“Our ambition is to reduce purchasing impulses which have environmental, social and economic consequences,” expose the rapporteur, recalling that the textile sector represents 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. To achieve this, Ms. Violland intends « limit the price gap with other more virtuous textile companies”, by implementing a “penalty”.
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“The company is free to pass on the penalty or not”
By 2030, this sanction applied to the company could reach up to 10 euros per product, with a ceiling of 50% of the sales price excluding tax. Amount which will be paid to the eco-organization Refashion. “The company is free to whether or not to pass on the penalty to its selling prices. For a 15 euro dress purchased on Shein or Temu, the penalty could be 7.50 euros”imagines the rapporteur.
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Conversely, so-called “virtuous” companies, with limited effects on the environment, will be entitled to a “bonus”, also capped at 50% of the sales price excluding tax (compared to 20% today, with a maximum of 2.10 euros), paid by Refashion. When contacted, it did not wish to communicate the names of the brands which benefit from this bonus. This “bonus-malus” system would be added to the already existing mandatory eco-contribution of 3.90 euro cents per item of clothing on average, paid to Refashion by all textile companies.
But how can we define poor textile students? The bill retains a criterion based on the volumes produced and the speed of renewal of collections, without however specifying it. “We were thinking of setting it at a thousand references per day, but this will not be included in the text. We will do it later by decree,” assures the parliamentarian. For the moment, only ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein and Temu are targeted.
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