2024-07-05 16:40:59
Even before the guests, mostly dressed in black, had taken their seats, loud techno beats were shaking the windows of the planes. “Please don’t get too close,” a security guard warned as visitors posed for photos on the steps leading to the machines. Boarding cards are left at the entrance of the Haderlump fashion label “Aero” in the name of the collection for spring and summer 2025, which will be displayed at the old Berlin Tempelhof Airport among historic aircraft.
A tribute to aviation culture and the life of aviation pioneer Amelia Earhart, who was the first woman to cross the Atlantic in a non-stop plane in 1932. Often seen as an accessory: the aviator hat. With his designs, the designer Johann Ehrhardt tries different materials, combines a bomber jacket, tie and shirt, complements the woven fabric with matching pants with a bag made of denim, long straps across the land.
Your audience at Berlin Fashion Week is young and doesn’t need a seat belt for avant-garde designs. If you believe the thunderous applause after the show, it was a lot of fun.
Many young Berlin designers dream of this
Berlin’s joy is the non-traditional culture of the past. For decades it has appeared in the person of Claudia Skoda. The icon of the Berlin underground scene founded his knitting label in 1975, supported music legends like Iggy Pop and David Bowie and opened a store in New York in the 1980s. And he still inspires. The start of the fashion week with the Tempodrom by the designer, born in 1943. While the models walked through the corridors of the concert hall with bright knitted designs on their bodies, Skoda happily watched a slide show on the walls made records from their lives. Timeless fashion – that’s what many Berlin designers expect.
Founded in 2021, the brand Marke – an acronym of the designer Mario Kein – can be on the right wavelength by breaking gender rules. In his “Zapfenstreich” reception, which was presented on Monday evening at the Kulturforum, men also walked the catwalk in women’s dresses; And sustainability: Its compositions are made from 100 percent organic cotton. To make recycling easier, the designer avoids synthetic fibers.
The presentation of Rianna & Nina’s “Folklore” collection at the Greek embassy was also a cultural experience. Because the costumes – decorated, lace and rich designs – are not shown by the models, but by the dancers. As always, the designers Nina Knaudt and Rianna Kounou are not shy to challenge the Berlin Berghain cliché.
A splash of color in the rain
Marc Cain is also seen. The brand presents a variety of designs in pastel colors, floor-length chiffon dresses and large floral prints on the Sanssouci square overlooking the New Palace in Potsdam – a splash of color during the rainy week. Marcel Ostertag also added color with his “Eden” collection. Above all, he said, he wanted to bring people closer to paradise, the farm where he lived with his partner in March. For these reasons, it can also be a floor-length sequin dress, flounces that stretch over the entire leg, and side-cuts. In addition to his role as a model, Ostertag also acts as a show organizer, taking the microphone when the models are lost in the backstage and thanking the happy guests in the Uber Music Hall who paid for a ticket to his show.
Color: Models show Marc Cain designs.stopNamilia was also excited – even before the show started. On Thursday night, the young brand invited people to the former train tunnel at Potsdamer Platz, presented their designs almost an hour later than stated, and yet the mood was good. Perhaps because a look is already optimistic: The creative minds behind Namilia, Emilia Pfohl and Nan Li, are known for their provocative designs, and they also hired reality show actor Kader Loth as a model – and worked for the collection their new Good Girl Gone Bad” with Ed Hardy. The skimpy clothes with sequins resulting from this collaboration can be called bold, “challenging” looking at the impressive tattoo prints of the Ed Hardy representative.
And one can raise the question of how suitable all this is for everyday use outside of Berlin. You can. But you can also notice how the words printed on the T-shirts made the audience laugh during the show, how they beat their heads, first cautiously and then very energetically to the music of David Guetta, which he wrote as business – and how After the show, he scurries towards the exit with a blissful smile.
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