Travel tip in Rheinhessen: Hike in the heart of the wine growing region

2024-09-19 17:38:57

Traveling in Rheinhessen? What seemed strange a few years ago due to the lack of a network of roads now also reaches areas that were previously terra incognita thanks to the “reform” operating according to certain quality requirements. In Germany’s largest wine region, it is the travel and management that knows the power of the new game and thematic trails. The “magic of the 1000 mountains”, as it is called for the area between the Rhine and the Nahe, can now be experienced in many ways.

The method is two-way. On the one hand, “hiwworld tours” designed for half-day trips lead to special features such as juniper heaths or ecosystems. On the other hand, there is also the matter of long-distance routes. It makes sense to open up the steep eastern side with a “Rhine Terrace Trail” that stretches 75 kilometers from Worms to Mainz, but this is by no means only for long-distance hikers. Feeders and additional loops allow entry, ascent and descent everywhere.

The route opens up unprecedented views over the Rhine valley to the Odenwald and the Lower Main, while amazing landscape and cultural forms can be discovered up close. You can learn about such amazing things as the empty labyrinths or the Heidenturm churches. However, the two would not have existed without the wine growing. Only the channels cut ever deeper into the Ice Age loess soil by groups over the centuries create true hollow impressions, especially in the Alsheim area, which – if they survive the mixed soil – are protected and accessible with a system of methods.

The wine business made it possible to build large buildings for worship from time to time. This does not apply to the Church of St. Catherine above Oppenheim. Even in small towns you can find Romanesque-Gothic churches that were often renovated in the Baroque period. However, such as in Guntersblum or Alsheim, the so-called Heathen towers are preserved, which with their square, domed roofs can mix Byzantine elements under the influence of the First Crusade at the end of the 11th century.

There is also a unique cemetery behind the Alsheim Bonifatiuskirche. Moving, mystical, fairy gardens, these are some of the descriptions of the completely preserved residence between the 18th and early 20th centuries that you can read in the visitor’s book. Independent from later changes, each of the stone tombs is unique in terms of shape and symbol – pyramids, steles, wood or pillar stumps – and yet, in its cultural perspectives from classical to Art Nouveau, reflecting the traditions of the time.

Directions

Thanks to regional trains and S-Bahn, the cities have good connections to the Rhine side. The “feeds” to the Rheinterrassenweg start at the respective train stations. Alsheimer is also conveniently located along the nature reserve on the Old Rhine with a circular loop. There are plenty of parking spaces in front of the station.

You can optionally walk north on both sides of the tracks. On the right, a barrier that is always closed on Gimbsheimer Straße, 200 meters, is reserved; On the left side you can see the Gothic-Baroque Church of the Assumption of Mary. Either way, follow Gimbsheimer Straße to the right until it ends in front of a new development area. This means that the Jewish cemetery outside became a part of the place where they lived. However, the tombs, which date back to the 18th century, are walled and the gate is closed.

Immediately behind it cross the busy B 9 using the “stepping stone” and head across the field towards the wooden fence; Before that, turn right onto a grassy road. It faithfully describes the left hand bend of the former loop of the Rhine, which is lined with poplars, oaks and even fruit trees. With water created by gravel and sand mining, the protected area measures 275 hectares.

Mystical and moving: A wonderful cemetery is preserved in the Bonifatiuskirche of Alsheim.Thomas Klein

After about two kilometers you will leave it behind and turn right; Of the two economic methods in the fastest way, the second one should be chosen. A little dusty ahead, you pass over the grass between the rows of vines to the main road. It is crossed again and continues straight on the other side. Wingerte was behind when he turned left after 600 meters – the railway line was nearby – and now aimed for Mettenheim. When you reach the entrance, you have to follow it for 200 meters before entering the core, which is characterized by baroque buildings.

In addition to the parish church and attractive courtyards, the half-timbered town hall stands out. The building’s foundation and stairwell date from the 16th century. To the left, beyond it, you take the yellow feeder road to the Rheinterrassenweg. About 200 meters further you turn right into the slope for the connection to the main road (green-blue). The exterior is more airy. Go straight ahead for a bit before turning half right into the ravine and uphill. It is one of the few to have mature paving, and accordingly, we have already placed the wine press further in the vineyards (at a small fork below on the right).

Here, and at the height of the Terrassenweg, a great panorama opens up over the Rhine plain to the summit of Melibokus on the Bergstrasse. However, you have to walk down the valley again on the grassy path that leads to Mettenheim. The climbing begins behind the meeting with the feeder.

Square and arched by a dome: the tower of the Gothic St. Catherine’s Church above Oppenheim.Thomas Klein

Soon a large shelter invites you to take a break, because the infrastructure is otherwise good as the path continues between the vineyards with many changes of direction. At this station, go left on the hill to the other side of the hill. A little way down, you go to Alsheim by turning right. In front of him is a deep cut of a valley whose loess walls – without vegetation – have become hard rock due to sunlight.

At the exit, the terraced road turns to the left to get into the further streets. But the direct route to Alsheim is the best because of the stress on your feet due to the rough roads. This is done by the Luther trail (green L), which we always follow: from the ravine to the right and immediately to the left, it explains the safety thanks to the grass path. The vineyards extend to the outskirts of the city, replaced by the oleander and palm trees of the Mediterranean gardens and finally enhanced by the vegetation around St. Boniface Church; After that you go to the left to the entrance to the historic cemetery.

Via Mühlstrasse and Taubenstrasse you reach the old core with the half-timbered town hall from 1750 as the anchor point, and before turning into Mittelgasse, which turns into Bahnhofstrasse.

Worth seeing

The unspoilt areas in Rheinhessen often have closed towers of baroque houses (half timbered) and large wineries and farms. The parish church in Mettenheim has existed since 1755; High pitched roofs characterize the rent office and town hall, core and staircase tower which dates back to the 16th century. The town hall of Alsheim was also built around 1750. This period also saw the construction of the new Catholic parish church of the Assumption of Mary on a Gothic foundation. The Bonifatius church in the south has grown considerably. The Heidenkirche tower was called around 1100 under the influence of the First Crusade based on the Byzantine model. The nearby cemetery maintains a perfectly preserved burial ground laid out between the late 18th and early 20th centuries.

A special feature is the deep hollow paths in the vineyards. Today they are very protected – even as biotopes – and they were created by large carts in the loose loess.

Directions

Alsheim in Rhine-Hesse is about 20 kilometers south of Mainz on the B 9.

From Mainz, Roman Theater (S 8), S 6 runs towards Worms. Currently you have to use bus (56) from Guntersblum. From the Rathaus stop in Alsheim it is a short walk to the train station.

Data

Map: Rheinhessen, scale 1:50,000, State Office for Surveying, Rhineland-Palatinate