Deutsche is the new star designer

by time news

2024-09-27 15:21:39

Sienna Miller was there, as were Juliette Lewis, Selma Blair and Diane Kruger. To the left of the photo wall, the crowd of celebrities was already growing on Wednesday morning because the photographers could not keep up with the photo of the very famous women who arrived at Chloé’s. Celebrities are as ready-to-wear as champagne is in the evening. At Chloé, however, the crowds are limited. Now it becomes clear what and, above all, who is driving this brand forward with speed, hard work and even fun.

Six months ago, Chemena Kamali presented her first collection as head designer at Chloé. At that time it was known only to the owners, including a few Germans. The 42-year-old fashion designer grew up in Dortmund, studied in Trier and worked for Strenesse in Nördlingen – before moving to Paris and working as studio manager for Saint Laurent, among other things.

Then came her debut as a head model at Chloé in February. In June he was at the Ball Meet in New York, the fashion industry’s Oscar night. But he did not appear with a single celebrity on his side, as usual, but he brought a whole crowd of women with him: Greta Gerwig, Sienna Miller, Emma Mackey, Zoe Saldana. Soon after, Chemena Kamali attended Emmanuel Macron’s state visit to Bellevue Palace to celebrate German-French friendship. At the Democratic Party Convention in August, he dressed Kamala Harris twice.

Chemena Kamali (second from right) at the Met Gala in May in New York, surrounded by stars such as director Greta Gerwig (center) and actresses Zoe Saldana (left) and Sienna Miller (right)Evan Agostini / Invision / AP

He took authentic prints out of the archives

Event months for the designer who has been working with star designers for a long time. Now she is in this role herself and at the same time brings Chloé’s past into the present. Many of the floral prints in the collection are from the archives. Karl Lagerfeld, then at Chloé, had them developed for his 1977 collection by a silk producer in Matera. So Kamali and his team traveled to Puglia and brought the prints from Matera on this road.

The story makes the pieces special, the cuts – especially the mullet dresses, as short in the front as skimpy miniskirts, and in the back they skim the floor – make them modern. Kamali threw jackets on top that appeared looser than many of the wider blazers elsewhere on the runway. This also shows your self-confidence as a designer.

Selma Blair, Diane Kruger, Anna Wintour and Sienna Miller (left to right) at the Chloé show in Paris on ThursdaySelma Blair, Diane Kruger, Anna Wintour and Sienna Miller (left to right) at the Chloé show in Paris on Thursdaystop

While many fashion designers in Milan last week raised the dolce vita and talked about the Italian summer, but most did not have the courage to always introduce loose, light summer clothes in their collections, this Chloé collection was amazing -fire. “The feeling of summer can express itself in different ways,” said Kamali after the show. “Some want to go and experience something. Others want to take a break. For me it’s about bringing that feeling of closeness back into the collection. “

This is how you create a mood. At the Gauchere label it is without a catwalk show. Designer Marie-Christine Statz, another German who has long been rooted in Paris, welcomes visitors to her studio. Their color blocking and clothes made from shaved ribbon also stand out on the hanger.

In contrast, Valérie Messika, who designs jewelry under her own name, uses the big stage: the catwalk show for her diamond jewelry. The hustle and bustle in the evening in the upper Mexico in the morning in Chloé: Eva Herzigová on the catwalk, Heidi Klum and Tom Kaulitz in a row. One more block: Cardi B, Natalia Vodianova and among – also unusual – her stylist, Valérie Messika. This means you are in good company in the early days of dress-up.

Because of Dries Van Music there is nothing backstage with the models at the Dries Van Music show, but are sitting in the front row. In March he announced his resignation from the company, which he founded in 1986 and sold in 2018. What a strange time: Dries Van Noten without him for the first time. The result of the design team from Antwerp shows that you leave your home in good condition. They present a fireworks display of clothes and prints, a trademark of the Belgian brand. Shiny satin with masculine stripes, florals on textured fabrics, interspersed with monochrome satin blousons and snake print bags. In the end, the whole team took to the catwalk. That could also be a start.

#Deutsche #star #designer

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