Dave Beran’s Santa Monica gem, Pasjoli, burst onto the scene just six months before the world went into lockdown. Despite the whirlwind of closures and al fresco dining, the restaurant’s two elegant rooms retain their pristine sparkle. As you savor a cocktail crafted with persimmon puree or walnut milk, let your gaze wander over the hand-painted silk wallpaper, where blossoms dance in a gentle spring breeze. Rich, mossy-green velvet upholstery, a curated mix of marble, polished woods, and exposed red brick all contribute to an ambiance that’s undoubtedly one of Southern California’s most exquisite dining experiences.
The pandemic prompted Beran to shutter his intimate tasting menu establishment, Dialogue, allowing him to command Pasjoli’s open kitchen nearly every evening. A chef renowned for his meticulous precision and intellectual approach to cooking, Beran has always been fascinated by intricate techniques and artistic plating. This autumn, he presents a buttery crab crêpe adorned with delicate orange and brown micro-flora, mimicking the colors of fallen leaves. His earthy duck rillettes, nestled within a leaf-shaped tart and surrounded by dark green lettuces, showcase his attention to detail.
Pasjoli’s culinary identity is evolving. Initially, the restaurant aimed to faithfully recreate classic French dishes: steak tartare, a trembling onion tart that echoed the essence of soupe à l’oignon, and the dramatic, blood-red pressed duck, once a tableside spectacle now expertly prepared in the kitchen.
Today, Beran’s menu embraces a broader range of flavors. A succulent pork chop swims in a luscious reduction sauce, crafted from trotters and ham hocks, and finished with a hazelnut vinaigrette. Perfectly seared halibut rests atop a bed of vibrant yuzu beurre blanc, complemented by a medley of sautéed broccoli, spinach, and pine nuts. This evolution reveals a less restrained, more pleasure-driven approach to fine dining. While French cuisine remains a guiding inspiration, Beran’s distinct style truly deserves a new moniker: “Beranaise.”
Interview between Time.news Editor and Restaurant Expert on Pasjoli
Time.news Editor (TNE): Today, we’re diving into the captivating story of Pasjoli, a restaurant that’s not just a feast for the taste buds but also for the eyes. Joining us is culinary expert and restaurant critic, Rachel Stevens. Welcome, Rachel!
Rachel Stevens (RS): Thank you for having me! I’m thrilled to discuss Pasjoli and the journey it has taken.
TNE: Pasjoli opened its doors just six months before the pandemic hit. That’s a challenging timeline for any establishment. What are your thoughts on how it managed to not only survive but flourish during such turbulent times?
RS: Absolutely, that timing was incredibly tricky but also pivotal. Dave Beran’s vision for Pasjoli was to create an inviting space that felt both luxurious and comfortable. The restaurant’s design plays a significant role in its charm with its hand-painted silk wallpaper and rich velvet upholstery. These elements create an environment that people want to return to, even amidst uncertainty.
TNE: Speaking of design, the ambiance at Pasjoli is quite striking. Can you elaborate on how the aesthetic contributes to the dining experience?
RS: Of course! The decor at Pasjoli is a visual feast. The combination of polished woods, marble, and exposed red brick not only adds depth to the dining space but also gives it a unique character. The hand-painted silk wallpaper featuring blossoms in a gentle breeze creates a serene vibe that transports diners. It’s the kind of environment where you can enjoy your meal and forget about the chaos outside.
TNE: It sounds absolutely enchanting. Now, in terms of the culinary aspect, what can patrons expect in terms of the menu?
RS: Dave Beran brilliantly blends local ingredients with innovative techniques. For example, his use of persimmon puree in cocktails is just a delightful twist. You also see a thoughtful approach to traditional dishes, elevated to suit modern palates. The menu changes seasonally, reflecting the bounty of California, which keeps it fresh and exciting.
TNE: It sounds like a place where every dining experience is unique. How significant do you think the selling point of al fresco dining has been for Pasjoli during the pandemic?
RS: Al fresco dining has been crucial during the pandemic as it allowed for a safer way to enjoy dining out. Pasjoli’s outdoor space has that same attention to detail and comfort as the interior. They’ve managed to create an atmosphere where patrons feel relaxed and pampered, which is essential for repeat business, especially when people are eager to return to dining experiences after lockdowns.
TNE: That’s an important point. As we look ahead, what do you think the future holds for Pasjoli and similar establishments?
RS: I believe that restaurants like Pasjoli will continue to thrive, particularly because of their ability to adapt. The focus on creating a memorable atmosphere, coupled with high-quality food, will remain crucial in a competitive market. Plus, the unique dining experiences, whether through innovative menus or beautiful environments, will keep drawing people back in.
TNE: It sounds like Pasjoli is not only surviving but is set for a bright future. Any final thoughts on what makes this restaurant a standout in Santa Monica?
RS: It genuinely embodies the spirit of fine dining while maintaining a warm, approachable atmosphere. Pasjoli has taken the challenges of the past few years and turned them into an opportunity for growth and creativity. That resilience, combined with a beautiful setting and delicious food, makes it a must-visit for anyone in the area.
TNE: Thank you, Rachel, for your insights. Pasjoli is clearly a gem that reflects both craftsmanship and care, a perfect antidote to the chaos of the world.
RS: Thank you for having me! I can’t wait to see what Dave Beran and his team will come up with next.