CHOOSE MORE. A green that shines like the nature of the Val di Fleres, beautiful and wild, in the finally satisfied gaze of chef Tina Marcelli.
The increasingly coveted green star that the Michelin guide has been assigning since 2020 to restaurants, not just gourmet ones, which stand out for their commitment to sustainability, has since yesterday also shone on the jacket of the chef from Pusteria, who has been at the helm of the kitchens of the family hotel for 6 years Feuerstein and the Artifex gourmet corner, on the Brenner border. A recognition that has a double value.
“Much, much satisfaction and joy, because it is the star that suits us - underlines the chef from Cadipietra, where she grew up with her grandmother, mother, sister and father and mentor, the Umbrian Marcello Marcelli – and crowns years of efforts and hopes” shared, even in the kitchen, with his life partner, Kim ”Marcelli” Ferber, married 8 years ago in Cologne. Tina Marcelli, 37 years old, is the daughter of an artist: her mother Christina Weger was a waitress, her father, an esteemed professional in the kitchen, is still active.
A family passion.
“Yes, a passion that we all have in the family. Gastronomy is in our blood.”
But also a very early vocation
“Since I was little I wanted to become a chef. I watched my father in the kitchen and tried to cook with him.”
Bello
“Yes, but it didn’t work, because I have my head and he has his”.
Two “characters”.
“He is an Umbrian chef in love with Italian cuisine, while I wanted to see something else”.
The first important experience at the Sillianerwirt, just across the border
“A perfect restaurant, renowned in the area and where I did à la carte cuisine for the first time.”
Then Munich.
“I was just 15 years old, the Bayerischer Hof and the Königshof. Real institutions where you trained and learned the trade. Then the return to Valle Aurina, to the Alpen Palace and the Alpine Royal, where I encountered creative cuisine”.
When did you realize you could be successful?
“Forever. I remember that at the age of 8 I told a friend and my mother that I wanted to have a Michelin star”.
It’s been almost 30. Is that red one still a target?
“For now I’m satisfied, the road is difficult, but so is my will”.
An exceptional result however, if we consider that, apart from Anna Matscher of the zum Löwen restaurant with the red star, hers is the second green star for a restaurant with a strong feminine connotation (the other one was won 3 years ago by the restaurant Zum Hirschen of San Genesio). Is there still a gender problem in the restaurant world?
“In my opinion, less and less. There will always be those who criticize you as a woman or because they have preconceptions, but fortunately they are few.”
Why then are there so few women at the top of Italian kitchens?
“In my opinion there are quite a few. We are 12 women in the kitchen. Over the years, women have grown more and more and I am sure that in the kitchen there will be more and more good women who love to cook”.
No chauvinism and paternalism? A problem that has certainly not been overcome in some sectors in South Tyrol.
“In my opinion, no. If someone loves what they do, there is no difference whether they are a man or a woman. At least that’s how I see it.”
Does having a strong and decisive character count?
“That always helps in the kitchen and not only that, but it also helps to have respect for others. I respect other chefs and producers and they respect me.”
How would you define your cuisine?
“An immense love for my territory and my tradition”.
Has the fact that you are married to a woman created any problems?
“I have never listened to what others say, but I have always only listened to my heart. Then life is mine and no one else has to live it.”
Not even living in a small mountain community?
“Never had any problems with anyone. Everyone has always accepted us.”
Kim, his wife, works with her. In what role?
“She is my sous chef with Sandra Kofler, who has also been with me for 9 years.”
Usually in gastronomy couples one is in the kitchen and the other in the dining room. What is it like working with your wife at the same stove?
“With us it’s perfect: she has her ideas and I have mine and together something beautiful always comes out”.
Don’t you ever argue?
“Very little I would say. If we argue three or four times a year, that’s a lot. Let’s say that we are a couple who compensate each other well: when I’m nervous, she’s calm and vice versa. Even though everyone says that Kim is the strictest in the kitchen.”
Well she’s German, that’s to be expected…
“Actually…” (laughs)
There are many children in your life. You help many of them with solidarity and charity initiatives. Would you like some too?
“At the moment we don’t have time, but when the time comes certainly.”
And his childhood?
“I had the most beautiful childhood you could have, because I grew up with my grandmother Rosa Weger. My parents worked in San Candido. They have always been on my side and we have always been a close family and I have always been able to talk freely with them. And also with my grandmother.”
In addition to cooking, she is passionate about fast cars…
“Audi and above all Ferrari”.
His third book will be released soon in which he also talks about his favorite recipes. Say one?
“Risotto with porcini mushrooms with fermented hay milk cream and mustard seeds”.
A plate from Stella verde.
“Yes, because it was made with nearby farmers and producers. Our cuisine is full of territory and sustainability. And for this we must thank a master like Norbert Niederkofler who showed us that with our simple products we can conquer the Stars. Not just the green one.”
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Time.news Interview: A Green Star for Sustainability with Chef Tina Marcelli
Editor: Welcome to Time.news, where we explore the intersection of culinary excellence and sustainability. Today, we have the pleasure of speaking with Chef Tina Marcelli, who recently earned the prestigious green star from the Michelin guide. Thank you for joining us, Tina!
Tina Marcelli: Thank you for having me! It's a real pleasure to be here.
Editor: Let's start with the big news. Receiving the green star is a tremendous achievement, especially since it reflects a commitment to sustainability. How did you react when you heard the news?
Tina: It was an overwhelming moment for me—much satisfaction and joy! This star truly represents our values and the years of hard work and hopes shared in the kitchen with my life partner, Kim. It’s a recognition that feels like a culmination of everything we've poured our passion into.
Editor: You mentioned your family background, which seems rich in culinary tradition. How has your upbringing influenced your cooking style and philosophy?
Tina: Gastronomy is indeed in our blood. I grew up watching my father, who is a professional chef, and experimented alongside him in the kitchen. However, my vision was slightly different. While he adored traditional Italian cuisine, I wanted to explore a wider creative spectrum. This blend of influences shaped my approach to cooking, making it rich and multifaceted.
Editor: You had an impressive start in your career with renowned establishments. What did you learn from those early experiences?
Tina: My early experiences were both challenging and rewarding. Working at places like Bayerischer Hof and Königshof taught me the fundamentals of classic cuisine, but it was at the Alpen Palace and Alpine Royal that I really discovered creative cuisine. It was a pivotal moment for me, melding tradition with innovation.
Editor: At a young age, you aspired to earn a Michelin star. Given the arduous journey to achieve culinary excellence, do you still hold that dream?
Tina: Absolutely! While I am thrilled with our green star, the pursuit of excellence never truly ends. I always say that the road to the red star is difficult, but my determination remains strong. For now, I’m embracing this recognition and using it as motivation for further growth.
Editor: Speaking of recognition, your achievement stands out, especially for women in the culinary world. Do you think there is still a gender disparity in top kitchens?
Tina: I believe there is less of a gender problem now than in the past. Yes, there are still some preconceived notions, but fewer people hold onto those obscure views. In our kitchen, women's presence is strong and growing—the belief that anyone should be judged by their passion, regardless of gender, is essential.
Editor: You are calm in your confidence, and it’s evident that you have a strong, supportive environment. Can you tell us about your partnership with Kim in the kitchen?
Tina: Working with Kim is seamless! She is my sous chef and brings her own ideas and passion into the mix. While we each have our roles, we complement each other well. Most importantly, we respect each other’s skills, and that leads to creating something beautiful together in the kitchen.
Editor: It sounds like you balance each other wonderfully! Regarding personal matters, you mentioned that living in a small mountain community hasn't posed challenges for your relationship. That’s refreshing to hear!
Tina: It really is. We've always felt accepted and respected in our community. I think that comes from living authentically and focusing on what we love to do. Our success is a reflection of our choices.
Editor: Turning towards the future, you also engage in charity work for children. Is there a particular initiative that resonates with you?
Tina: While our busy schedules limit our time for personal charity work at the moment, I deeply believe in giving back. As soon as our circumstances allow, I’d love to involve ourselves more actively. Every child deserves support, and we hope to contribute meaningfully in the near future.
Editor: That’s a wonderful commitment. Before we wrap up, if you had to define your culinary style in a few words, what would they be?
Tina: My cuisine is an immense love for my territory and tradition. Every dish reflects the beauty of where I come from and what I stand for, especially the importance of sustainability in our practices.
Editor: Well, Tina, it’s clear that your passion fuels your incredible journey. Thank you so much for sharing your insights with us today, and congratulations again on your well-deserved recognition!
Tina: Thank you! It was a pleasure to share my story, and I look forward to what lies ahead in our culinary adventure.