- Clothes from the UK are ending up in massive waste dumps in Ghana.
- The dumps are in protected wetlands, causing environmental damage.
- Local residents are concerned about the impact on their health and livelihoods.
- Fashion brands are facing scrutiny and are starting to address the problem.
ACCRA, 2025-06-18 11:05:00 — Imagine wading through piles of discarded clothes, not in a thrift store, but in a protected wetland teeming with wildlife. That’s the reality for some in Ghana, where garments from the UK are polluting the environment. Reporters found clothes from brands like Next, George at Asda, and Marks & Spencer dumped in a huge rubbish site in Ghana’s wetlands.
Used clothing from the UK is being dumped in Ghana, impacting the environment and local communities.
The situation is dire. The dumps are located in an internationally recognized wetland, home to sea turtles and other species. Local people are complaining that fishing nets, waterways, and beaches are now choked with cast-off clothing.
Where the Waste Ends Up
In addition to the dumps, the waste spills over. Reporters also found garments from M&S, Zara, H&M, and Primark in another dump on the riverbanks leading to the conservation site.
The fashion industry acknowledges the challenges of textile waste. M&S, George, and Primark have take-back schemes in place. H&M, Zara, and George also say they’ll support extended producer responsibility to hold brands accountable.
The scale of the problem is alarming. The capital, Accra, is overwhelmed, with clothes carpeting beaches and lining canals.
Textile waste on the beach at Jamestown in Accra.
Environmental and Economic Fallout
New dump sites are popping up in conservation areas, vital for wildlife. Textile waste, including UK labels, is found tangled in the vegetation and buried in the sand. One resort manager even admitted to burning piles of clothes weekly.
At the heart of Ghana’s used clothing trade is Kantamanto market, receiving over 1,000 tonnes of clothes weekly. However, a trader, Mercy Asantewa, said the quality is deteriorating: “In the past, we had good clothes to sell to take care of our families, but these days the used clothes we find in the bales are not fit for resale.”
Accra’s waste management department head, Solomon Noi, estimates that 100 tonnes of garments leave the market daily as waste, but the city can only process 30 tonnes.
The Densu delta is designated as a site of international importance. However, the environmental harm continues. Residents report that the water is contaminated, and the area now has more mosquitoes and a bad smell. “Before, you could drink [the river water]. But now, when you go, you can’t drink it. The water is a bit black,” said Seth Tetteh, a local.
A man sorts through bales of secondhand clothes at Kantamanto market.
What the Brands Say
So, what do the brands have to say? M&S says it doesn’t send excess clothing to other countries or landfills, offering customers options like a repair service and in-store recycling. George has a zero-waste policy and supports exploring a textile EPR to improve recycling infrastructure. Primark states that it doesn’t send clothing from its takeback scheme or unsold stock to Ghana or anywhere else in Africa.
A dump site for secondhand clothes in Accra.
H&M acknowledges the industry’s challenges but admits its role, particularly in markets with insufficient waste management. Zara will support an EPR policy, believing common legislation is key. Next did not provide a comment.
Jamestown beach in Accra.
A coastal fishing community in Accra overwhelmed by textile waste.
Beyond the Headlines: The Complexities of the Fast Fashion Crisis
While the immediate visual impact of clothing mountains in Ghanaian wetlands is shocking,the issue runs far deeper than just the visible waste. The influx of cheap, fast fashion from the UK and other developed nations is interwoven with global economic inequalities, local business challenges, and the limitations of current waste management systems. Understanding these complexities is crucial for developing sustainable solutions.
The secondhand clothing trade,a vital source of income for many Ghanaians,is increasingly threatened. As mercy Asantewa noted, the decline in quality of the imported clothes-frequently enough due to their poor manufacturing standards and short lifespan, designed to be discarded quickly-is making it harder for traders to earn a living. This economic pressure further complicates waste management efforts as traders are now forced to make a living selling clothes that are literally falling apart.
Furthermore, the sheer volume of clothing arriving in Ghana overwhelms the existing infrastructure. As Solomon Noi pointed out,the city of Accra is simply unable to cope with the massive quantities of textile waste. This shortage highlights the urgent need for investment in improved waste management, including sorting facilities, recycling plants, and proper disposal methods. The current system of open-air burning, witnessed by the resort manager, exacerbates environmental and health concerns by releasing harmful pollutants into the air.
The situation also underscores the shortcomings of the “take-back” schemes and recycling initiatives offered by some fashion brands. while these programs are a step in the right direction, they often fall short of addressing the core problem. The majority of collected clothing still ends up in landfills or is incinerated, highlighting the need for a more holistic and circular approach that prioritizes durability, repairability, and truly closed-loop recycling systems.
The environmental ramifications are also more extensive than the immediate visual pollution. The textile industry is a meaningful consumer of water and energy,and the production of synthetic fabrics relies heavily on fossil fuels. As these garments degrade in the surroundings, they leach dyes and chemicals into the soil and water, impacting human health and threatening the delicate ecosystem. The Densu delta, a biodiverse hotspot, is just one example of the widespread contamination inflicted by the influx of waste clothing. The long-term effects on the wildlife and the local communities dependent on the river’s resources remain unknown
Ultimately,addressing the fast fashion crisis in Ghana requires a multi-faceted approach. This includes: (1) Holding brands accountable for the waste they generate through extended producer obligation schemes; (2) Investing in improved waste management infrastructure in Ghana and similar vulnerable areas; (3) Promoting circular economy models that emphasize durability, reuse, and recycling of textiles; and (4) Raising consumer awareness about the environmental and social costs of fast fashion to promote more responsible purchasing behaviors. It also demands global cooperation to combat the trade of low-quality, unsustainable garments for the protection of both the environment and the communities affected by the textile waste.
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