Angela Dean on ESSENCE’s “Forever Cover”: A Legacy of black Excellence and Divine Inspiration
As ESSENCE magazine celebrates its 55th anniversary, a pivotal moment in its history – teh groundbreaking 30th Anniversary issue from May 2000 – is being revisited. at the heart of this iconic cover, featuring Halle Berry, loretta Devine, vivica A. Fox, Regina King, Michael michele, Elise Neal, Queen Latifah, and Jada Pinkett Smith, was the visionary work of fashion designer Angela Dean, who crafted the gowns that celebrated Black womanhood. In an exclusive interview, Dean reflects on the creative process, the emotional resonance of the shoot, and the enduring impact of a cover that continues to inspire.
A Moment Years in the Making
The 30th Anniversary Collector’s Edition of ESSENCE magazine quickly became one of the publication’s best-selling issues, a testament to its cultural significance. Dean’s designs weren’t merely garments; they were statements of artistry and empowerment. The project began with a serendipitous connection. Dean met Pamela Macklin, then Fashion Director, shortly before the cover shoot was planned. “Pamela and I immediately bonded,” Dean recalled. Just a week later, Macklin called with a confidential proposition: designing dresses for eight leading ladies for a cover unlike any other.
“She said, ‘Angela, I want to let you know something confidential.We’re getting ready to do a 30th anniversary cover for ESSENCE with eight leading ladies. This has never been done before,'” Dean recounted. Macklin reportedly believed Dean was divinely chosen for the task. “But God told me that you were supposed to do it all,” Macklin stated, according to Dean.
The Creative Vision: Simplicity and Essence
Macklin’s vision centered on capturing the inherent beauty of each woman, stripped of artifice. “She wanted everything to come from a space of just bringing out the pure beauty and essence of what each one of the women brought,” Dean explained. The directive was clear: no jewelry, no shoes, and a focus on simple necklines. The fabric choice – jersey – was also deliberate, representing a newer, more fluid aesthetic for Dean at the time.
Dean’s unique ability to work with diverse body types and deliver quickly proved crucial. “She knew I was capable of being able to be fast and creative, and also that one of my gifts is knowing how to work with different body types,” Dean noted. Inspired by a bouquet of flowers, Dean assigned colors to each woman, aiming to visually represent their individual style and personality. The timeline was incredibly tight – approximately one week – but Dean, accustomed to rapid turnaround times for couture work, embraced the challenge.
A Perfect Fit: From Fittings to the Set
The night before the shoot, fittings were held for all but Halle Berry, who was unable to attend. Dean recalled only needing to make a minor adjustment to Regina King’s design. However, the fitting with Berry the following morning proved particularly poignant. “When I zipped that zipper up on her dress, I just knew God had opened the skies for me because it zipped up in perfection,” Dean shared.”There was nothing I needed to do with that dress.”
On set, the atmosphere was electric. The eight women, many of whom already knew each other, created a joyful and collaborative habitat. “All eight of the ladies were getting their makeup done at the same time in the same room. They were laughing, playing around, talking crazy. Queen Latifah was cutting up,” Dean remembered. “It was like a big family reunion for them.”
The moment the group coalesced for the photograph was profoundly moving for Dean. “When I saw all eight women merge on set and that picture came to life,I couldn’t take it in. It went through me. I walked away and began to cry,” she said. “It just felt like god had showed up for all of us on set that day and you feel the moment.”
An Enduring Legacy: The “Forever Cover”
The impact of the 30th Anniversary ESSENCE cover has resonated for over two decades. it continues to circulate widely on social media, sparking conversations about Black excellence, empowerment, and the beauty of Black women. “Whenever that 30th Anniversary ESSENCE cover gets posted on social media, it goes viral all over again,” Dean observed. Many have shared how the cover evokes cherished memories of their childhoods and represents a powerful symbol of pride and representation. “This cover feels like empowerment. This cover feels like Black excellence,” Dean quoted from the many messages she’s received.The cover, Dean concluded, is simply “iconic.”
Beyond the Cover: Angela Dean’s Enduring Influence on Fashion
The success of Angela Dean’s designs for the ESSENCE 30th Anniversary cover extended far beyond the magazine pages. Dean’s work, characterized by its elegance, inclusivity, and ability too celebrate the beauty of Black women, paved the way for her continued influence in the fashion industry. The iconic cover served as a catalyst,amplifying her voice and solidifying her position as a sought-after designer. This project was a testament to her understanding of fashion’s capacity to communicate power and identity.
Dean’s career, even before this pivotal moment, was already noteworthy. As she mentioned, her capacity to work efficiently and
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