Dhe Easter Passion story formed the core of the Christian faith from the very beginning, far more than the Christmas event, and was depicted early on. In many cases, however, it was only with the beginning of the stone church construction that crucifixes, paintings or altarpieces gave those who could not read an idea of the suffering of Jesus, but also the hope of overcoming death.
Before the proclamation of the word came into focus, sculptural altars and crucifixion groups brought this development to its climax, such as those created by Tilman Riemenschneider or Hans Backoffen on the threshold from the Gothic to the Renaissance. Backoffen’s work, mainly in the Archdiocese of Mainz, was no reason to prevent him from creating a Golgotha group that was erected outside of Frankfurt Cathedral in 1509 (now in the west tower; a copy in the authentic place).
The posture of Christ and the two thieves is similar to that of the group created ten years later for the pilgrimage church of Hessenthal in the Spessart, but appears even more poignant due to the (preserved) coloring and level of detail. The group now forms the altar area of the pilgrimage church, which was rebuilt in 1955. The puristic white of the hall-like building emphasizes the expressiveness of the six figures carved in stone, although the high crosses make it easy to see that they used to stand outside, as in Frankfurt. Since the Middle Ages, the rush to a miraculously revered miraculous image has been so strong that, despite several church expansions, sermons have been held in the open air.
Old breeds of sheep in the Kaltenbachgrund
However, the last construction required the original pilgrimage church and burial place of Echter to be shortened. In addition to floor and wall epitaphs, the extraordinary tomb of the most famous Echter generation from 1583 has been preserved. In addition to Peter III. and his wife Gertrud, who played a key role in creating their ancestral seat, the famous Mespelbrunn Palace, eight of their children are kneeling, including Julius von Echter, Prince Bishop of Würzburg and energetic champion of the Counter-Reformation.
The Echters used to find their burial place in the old pilgrimage church. Among the epitaphs is that created in 1583 of the most famous generation under Peter III. and his wife Gertrud is of truly outstanding importance: it reaches more than seven meters to the cross vault of the late Gothic choir.
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Image: Thomas Klein
The family, who had risen in the service of Mainz, wanted to be close to the Mother of God, who was kept in the Chapel of Grace next door. However, the work embedded in a baroque altar dates from the late Gothic period and cannot correspond to that which, according to legend, was discovered above Hessenthal in the late 13th century. There the so-called Lord’s picture chapel was built, to which the Pietà used to be carried on high holidays. Today, on Easter Monday and Whit Monday at 9.30 a.m., there is an inner-city procession before the festival service.
It may be coincidence, but at Easter it is a nice addition that old breeds of sheep are kept in Hessenthal – dark-skinned Heidschnucke and Moorschnucke with light-colored, very dense fur. The Spessart Nature Park had these settled in the neighboring Kaltenbachgrund as part of one of the projects to reactivate former landscape forms. Trees were felled and swampy zones created for the animals that had adapted to the wet, marshy soils, so that they permanently kept a habitat open for the flora and fauna that depended on meadow-like zones.
Directions
The bus stop and a car park are right across from the Hessenthaler Kirchen. As it is open all day, it makes no difference whether you visit the trinity of pilgrimage church, chapel of grace and burial ground at the beginning or at the end. The entrance to the latter is through the church.
At the start of the hike, the red line marks the Mühlstraße. Your long row of houses ends at the country road to be crossed. Now it’s loosening up, and then turn right at the “Waldweg” signpost. After 200 meters we cross another country road with right-left hooks and begin to climb moderately over there under trees.