Every day there are more cars on the roads leading to Kyiv. Almost two months ago, shortly after the start of the war, all the roads from the city were characterized by kilometers of traffic jams, people were fleeing Russian bombs and missiles. About half of the 3 million inhabitants had left. Now we see again traffic jams forming on the roads, but in the opposite direction, in the direction of kyiv. More and more people are coming back. Some 50,000 a day, according to Mykola Povorosnik, the deputy mayor of kyiv.
But these returns are difficult. The checkpoints, anti-tank barriers and concrete slabs that were to block the way for the Russian army are still there. Virtually all signposts are coated in black paint. Local authorities and activists hoped to disrupt the Russian troops, in case they managed to get here. This was not the case, but these illegible signs are confusing returning Kievans.
It’s still war in Ukraine. Monuments and statues in kyiv are covered with sandbags to protect them from rocket fire. We see huge posters everywhere, almost all written in Russian because they are intended for the occupier: “Russian soldier, stop! Putin lost, the whole world is with Ukraine!”, “Go away, without having blood on your hands!”, “Russian soldier, think about it. Think about your family. Go home with a clear conscience!”, “Russian soldier, don’t kill for Putin. Don’t become an assassin, shoot yourself! Remain a human being!” they proclaim. And finally :
“The Z is the new swastika.”
Other panels address words of gratitude to Ukrainian soldiers, volunteers and all Ukrainians for their determination and courage. “Dear all, hold on! Victory is coming soon!” they shout. “We don’t have to be saved. Our homeland is Ukraine!”, “Russians out!” or “Thank God that our eyes have seen a new day dawn!”.
“Too early to return”
However, kyiv has been waking up to new life since Russian troops retreated to the area. Cafes, restaurants, clothing stores, and even beauty salons are open again. Unlike in the early days of the war, supermarket shelves are once again well stocked. Buses and trams are running again, and metro stations are reopening one after another, although traffic is still limited.
Nevertheless, every evening before curfew, the metro once again becomes a refuge for the Kievans. Some come out of habit, but many others because they have lost their house or apartment and see no other place to go. During the first two weeks of April, kyiv no longer trembled under the din of the explosions, but the howl of the sirens had not ceased for all that. Three rockets also hit a machine factory on the night of Thursday 14 to Friday [15 avril] and the outer boroughs suffered t