Tan Ser Seng: A Singaporean Turtle Soup Legacy Navigates Modernization and a Looming Succession Question
Singapore’s culinary landscape is facing a critical juncture, with beloved heritage businesses increasingly vulnerable to closure. Among those striving to adapt and endure is Tan Ser Seng Herbal Soup, a restaurant founded in 1946, now led by its third-generation owner, Allan Tan. The restaurant, famed for its turtle soup originally brewed to fortify laborers, is grappling with the challenges of modernization while preserving a deeply rooted family legacy.
Tan Ser Seng’s story began nearly eight decades ago with Tan Ah Sai, who established the eatery with a single, signature dish. The soup, crafted with freshwater turtles, was intended to provide strength to the “coolies” – the manual laborers of the time. Today, the restaurant operates from Lorong 21 Geylang, a location steeped in family history, where Allan Tan, 34, is spearheading efforts to ensure its continued success.
Tan’s earliest memories are intertwined with the restaurant’s bustling atmosphere. After the family relocated to Geylang from Eunos, the dining area and kitchen served as his childhood playground. He recalls assisting with chores, even if it meant occasional mishaps with customers, quickly smoothed over by his mother’s apologies. “My entire childhood was here,” Tan shared.
Unlike many family-run businesses, Tan’s parents did not pressure him to take over. His mother, in fact, expressed concerns about the demanding nature of the food and beverage (F&B) industry. Despite this, Tan felt a pull to continue his grandfather’s work, a decision he made independently. His sister’s path to involvement was markedly different; she was compelled to join the business after their father threatened to sell it if she didn’t, a situation Tan described with a touch of sheepishness.
Today, the family operates as a cohesive unit. Tan’s sister leads research and development, while her husband manages operations and human resources. Crucially, the three of them are the sole keepers of the family’s closely guarded recipe. The restaurant has even attracted notable patrons, including martial arts star Sammo Hung.
When Tan officially stepped into the business at age 26, he found a well-established but “chaotic” operation. He identified a lack of standardized processes and a resistance to change – a mindset of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Over the subsequent eight years, he quietly and diligently modernized the kitchen and streamlined operations. This involved navigating generational differences, particularly with his father, who struggled to understand the importance of online reviews. “During his time, if customers asked for more things or complained, he would just ask them to ‘eff off’,” Tan laughed, noting that customers would nonetheless return.
Recognizing the evolving preferences of diners, Tan understands the need to appeal to younger generations. He actively dispels the misconception that the restaurant uses endangered sea turtles, clarifying that they utilize freshwater soft-shell turtles bred for consumption. He also emphasizes a gradual introduction to the soup, encouraging first-time customers to sample the broth before committing to the meat, which he describes as having a flavor profile “somewhere between chicken, pork and fish — sweet, collagen-rich, slightly herbal.”
The generational divide is clear: older customers prioritize authentic flavors, while younger diners seek a holistic experience encompassing taste, service, and visual appeal. To cater to this shift, Tan Ser Seng’s upcoming outlet, slated to open next year, will feature new dishes inspired by traditional Chinese medicine, updated tableware, and a more contemporary presentation.
The question of succession looms large. With Singapore facing an aging hawker population and declining birth rates, many heritage brands are disappearing due to a lack of successors. The recent closure of Very Lucky Turtle Soup at Berseh Food Centre serves as a stark reminder of this vulnerability. Tan admits he hasn’t fully considered his own long-term exit strategy, but remains open to the possibility of his niece taking over. He even contemplates passing the business and its secret recipes to anyone who shares his passion for food and heritage.
For Tan, the most pressing concern is the potential loss of Singapore’s unique food culture. He fears that the increasing number of F&B closures and the influx of foreign businesses will disconnect future generations from the dishes that define the nation’s culinary identity. “Many places are closing. If we don’t appreciate our food culture, it will disappear,” he warned. “One day, the next generation might not even know what char kway teow is.”
For now, the legacy of Tan Ser Seng appears secure under Allan Tan’s determined leadership, as he continues his grandfather’s work for as long as humanly possible.
