A 130-Year Legacy: Inside marseille’s Last Savonnerie,Where Tradition is a Matter of Taste
The scent of olive oil and sea salt hangs heavy in the air at La Savonnerie du Midi,one of the last remaining producers of authentic Savon de Marseille. For nearly four decades, Franck has dedicated his life to this historic craft, rising through the ranks to become a Maître Savonnier – a role he describes as the pinnacle of his career.
La savonnerie du Midi,located in the northern districts of Marseille,celebrated its 130th anniversary last year,a testament to its enduring commitment to quality and tradition. Franck knows every corner of the facility, having worked in every stage of production, from handling raw materials to overseeing the massive cooking vats. This intimate knowledge is crucial, as the art of soapmaking here isn’t learned from textbooks, but through years of hands-on experience passed down from one generation to the next.
The process of creating a true Savon de Marseille is a meticulous one, taking between seven and ten days from start to finish. Franck guides visitors through the five key stages: l’empatage, where oils – olive, coconut, and palm, all vegetable-based – are heated with soda and brine; le relargage, the addition of sea salt; the crucial cooking phase; washing the soap; and la liquidation, where fresh water is added.
But the quality control doesn’t stop at laboratory tests. Franck possesses a unique and remarkable skill: he tastes the soap. “Ther are lab tests, of course,” he explains, “but generally, I can tell if its good by the taste. I enjoy playing the chemist.” He describes an emotional connection to each step of the production, a daily ritual of refinement and assessment.
Initially, Franck wasn’t driven by a passion for soapmaking. “I was mainly looking for a permanent contract,” he admits with a smile. Though, over the years, he absorbed the secrets of the trade, and La Savonnerie du Midi became a place of “well-being” for him. It’s also a place of continuity, with Franck now passing on his expertise to his son.
“He came for an internship at 14,” Franck says with visible pride.”It transformed him. After that, he didn’t miss a day of school.” While he doesn’t dwell on retirement, Franck finds comfort knowing the savoir-faire will remain within the family. He acknowledges the title of Maître Savonnier carries weight, but believes its true significance is confined to the walls of the Savonnerie. When asked what constitutes a good Savon de Marseille, his response is immediate and unequivocal: “It’s a soap that was made here.”
Beyond its cleansing properties,the soap boasts surprising versatility. According to Franck,it’s an effective moth repellent,a remedy for cramps,and – remarkably – even suitable for brushing teeth.
La savonnerie du Midi also houses a small museum, showcasing a surprising collection of artifacts related to the history of the craft. For those interested in learning more about La Corvette, the soapmaker behind La Savonnerie du Midi, further information can be found here. The legacy of this Marseille institution, built on tradition, taste, and a dedication to quality, continue
