The Golden Spurtle: Documentary Celebrates the Unexpected World of Porridge Championships
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A new documentary, The Golden Spurtle, reveals the surprisingly competitive and passionate world of competitive porridge making, offering a glimpse into a unique Scottish tradition. The film, directed by Australian filmmaker Constantine Costi, follows the 2023 World Porridge Making Championships in Carrbridge, Scotland – the contest’s 30th year – and explores the dedication of those who strive for the coveted Golden Spurtle award.
According to the Dictionaries of the Scots Language, a spurtle is defined as “a short, round stick used for stirring porridge.” While seemingly simple, the annual competition in the Scottish Highlands elevates this humble tool and the dish it prepares to an international stage.
The documentary centers around the 2023 championships, a particularly poignant year as Charlie Miller, the long-standing “chieftain” of the Golden Spurtle since 1994 and a beloved figure in Carrbridge, stepped down from his role. One observer noted that Miller is “the star” of the film, embodying the spirit and history of the event.
A Cinematic Approach to Oatmeal
Costi and cinematographer Dimitri Zaunders employ distinctive cinematic techniques to tell this story. The film is shot in a 4:3 aspect ratio, deliberately evoking the aesthetic of mid-20th century films. Furthermore, the entire film utilizes a “locked-off” camera, meaning there is no camera movement, creating a framed, photographic quality. This stylistic choice, while initially striking, occasionally feels “dynamically inert,” yet is often balanced by the unexpected and humorous moments unfolding within the frame.
A Cast of Porridge Characters
The Golden Spurtle introduces a diverse cast of competitors, each with their own unique approach and passion for porridge. These include Ian Bishop, the only local to ever win the championship; Lisa Williams, known as “The Queen of Porridge” for her back-to-back victories; Nick Barnard, a seven-time finalist determined to finally claim the top prize; and Toby Wilson, an Australian chef who initially found fame crafting tacos before turning his attention to oats.
These contestants are as “idiosyncratic” as the competition itself, demonstrating a remarkable dedication to perfecting the art of porridge making. However, the film notably omits detailed insight into the judging process. Questions remain regarding the criteria for a winning bowl – the importance of oat variety, simmering versus rapid boiling, and the specific qualities judges seek in terms of taste, texture, and consistency.
One contestant, Ian Bishop, playfully guarded his oat selection, stating, “Why would I want to tell you? Other people would get to know.”
The documentary also overlooks the “Speciality Dish Category,” where contestants can experiment with additions to their oats. In October, Melbourne food stylist Caroline Velik won this category with a uniquely Australian creation – a porridge jaffle featuring bananas, wattleseed, Davidson plum powder, and Bundaberg rum. She was also runner-up in the main competition, noting that “you’d be surprised how many differences you can get with just those three ingredients.”
More Than Just Porridge
Despite its seemingly niche subject matter, The Golden Spurtle reveals a powerful story of community engagement. The event, organized by a small group of dedicated volunteers, has transformed a humble dish into an international celebration. It’s a testament to the power of passion and dedication, putting porridge “on the world stage.”
While the film leaves viewers wanting more – like Oliver Twist and his oatmeal gruel – it ultimately captures the heart and soul of this unique tradition. The Golden Spurtle is in cinemas from today.