A Right to Luxury: Italy’s Working-Class Wine Club Defies Expectations
A hidden gem on the outskirts of Rome is challenging perceptions of accessibility and indulgence, proving that world-class wine enjoyment isn’t solely the domain of the elite.
For two decades, a unique ritual has unfolded within the walls of the Arci “Pablo Neruda” club in the Cadè hamlet, located at Via Lavagna number 5. Once a railway workshop where locomotives were stored – the sidings remain beneath the building – this unassuming space now hosts monthly wine tastings featuring some of the world’s finest vintages, offered at remarkably affordable prices. The scene, as one attendee described it, is reminiscent of a playful jab from former Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi, with French wines from Beaujolais readily flowing.
“It was born almost by chance,” explains Davide Ferretti, the club’s treasurer and a driving force behind the evenings. “Wine verticals and sommelier courses were becoming more popular, and a few of us enthusiasts decided to try creating our own experience.” What began as a simple idea quickly evolved into a thriving community. “At the beginning it was a gamble,” Ferretti admits. “We spent a considerable amount just on glasses. Today, we have a wall displaying five hundred wine glasses.”
The club’s success hinges on the power of volunteering, deeply rooted in the traditions of the PCI-Arci lineage. This dedication allows the club to offer exceptional wines without the exorbitant markups typically associated with such experiences. A single evening requires the commitment of at least ten volunteers, with Giuliano Lusetti leading the culinary efforts. “He previously worked as a chef on a farm and in a restaurant, but now contributes his skills out of passion,” Ferretti notes.
Each month features a dinner dedicated to a different Italian region. The events, limited to just under one hundred places, are consistently sold out, often within days of reservations opening a month in advance. Initially, some were skeptical about the concept of high-end wine tasting in a working-class club. However, those who attend quickly become regulars. “We aim to maintain a welcoming and accessible atmosphere,” Ferretti emphasizes.
Tuscany and Piedmont consistently prove to be the most popular regions featured. During the warmer months, the tastings move outdoors, focusing on white wines paired with fish dinners, which are particularly sought after. The club’s unique appeal lies in its diverse clientele. Attendees include industrialists’ sons, passionate football ultras, volunteers from the Unity Festival, and elegantly dressed locals – a vibrant mix of individuals united by their shared appreciation for wine and conviviality.
Each tasting is guided by Luca Camellini, who provides insights into the wine’s history, tasting notes, and ideal food pairings, such as starters, Roquefort rice, stewed chicken, cheese selections, and orange crepes. He encourages discussion and sharing of impressions, often suggesting attendees “drink from the barrel,” believing that experiencing the wine without preconceived notions can be profoundly insightful.
After six courses and as many glasses, the evening transitions to karaoke, offering a chance to socialize and unwind before heading home. The spirit of camaraderie is palpable, culminating in a collective toast: “Drinkers of the world, unite!”
This unassuming club in Cadè hamlet demonstrates that a taste of luxury can, and should, be a right, not a privilege.
