Yotam Ottolenghi’s influence on modern cuisine is undeniable. His vibrant, flavor-forward approach, rooted in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean traditions, has captivated home cooks and professional chefs alike. A key element of this culinary style, and one frequently found in those who attempt to recreate his dishes, is a reliance on a specific set of ingredients – a collection so distinctive that many routinely stock them, hoping to capture a little of the Ottolenghi magic. The chef himself lists ten such ingredients in his cookbook, Simple, and it’s not uncommon for enthusiasts to have at least five of them on hand.
Central to Ottolenghi’s cooking is the use of bold flavors and aromatic spices. He’s known for his generous hand with ingredients like sumac, pomegranate molasses, and harissa paste, creating dishes that are both complex and approachable. But perhaps no single ingredient embodies his style quite like za’atar. This versatile herb blend, a staple in Middle Eastern cuisine, is a frequent presence in his recipes, adding an earthy, herbal depth to everything from roasted vegetables to simple salads.
What is Za’atar?
Za’atar isn’t just one thing. According to Ottolenghi’s Foodipedia, it refers to both a leafy green herb and a spice blend made from dried herbs, sesame seeds, and sumac. Ottolenghi notes that the herbs possess a “distinctive, pungent, savoury aroma.” The best za’atar spice blend is made with silvery-grey za’atar leaves that are dried and ground, combined only with sesame seeds, sumac, and salt.
The origins of za’atar are deeply rooted in the Middle East, with Palestinian and Israeli versions exhibiting unique characteristics based on the local soil. Although the leafy herb can be eaten fresh in salads or incorporated into bread dough, it’s the powdered form that has gained widespread popularity outside the region. It’s readily available in large supermarkets, or, as Ottolenghi suggests, directly from his online shop.
Beyond the Spice Rack: Za’atar in the Kitchen
The beauty of za’atar lies in its versatility. It’s not merely a seasoning; it’s a flavor enhancer that can transform a wide range of dishes. Ottolenghi recommends a simple application – sprinkling it over roast lamb or mixing it with olive oil to finish roast vegetables, flatbreads, or salads. It pairs well with dairy, vegetables, meats, fish, and even cheese, as demonstrated by his popular za’atar cacio e pepe, a dish he playfully suggests “cacio e pepe has been waiting for za’atar all this time.”
Worth a look
