The energy was palpable even before the doors officially opened. The Vogue Vintage Market, held at Roll & Hill in New York City, wasn’t just a sale; it was a curated experience, a collision of decades and a testament to the enduring appeal of pre-loved fashion. The event, which took place earlier this month, drew a crowd eager to unearth hidden gems and witness the intersection of celebrity style and sustainable shopping. This year’s market, hosted by Doja Cat, Emma Chamberlain, and Paloma Elsesser, proved that the thrill of the hunt for vintage pieces remains strong, and that the past continues to powerfully influence contemporary style.
Doja Cat, fresh off the cover of Vogue’s April issue, immediately set the tone with a bold look channeling 1980s Yves Saint Laurent. As she moved through the three-floor space, she described her outfit as “giving YSL, even though it’s not fully YSL vintage,” a playful acknowledgment of the inspiration behind her sculpted shoulders, black leather, electric blue gloves, and striking white straw fez. Beyond her role as host, Doja Cat was an active shopper, carefully selecting brooches, a pair of red Gucci mules, and a growing collection of finds, requiring a friend to assist with carrying her haul. The event underscored the growing popularity of vintage fashion, a trend fueled by both a desire for unique style and a growing awareness of the environmental impact of the speedy fashion industry.
The market’s curation, a collaborative effort by Chamberlain, Elsesser, Liana Satenstein, and Amy Astley, with a dedicated menswear edit from GQ, ensured a diverse selection. Pieces sourced from eBay and other outlets didn’t remain on the racks for long. A particularly popular draw was a collection of items from Anna Wintour’s personal wardrobe, instantly recognizable to those familiar with her signature style. Vogue editors, meanwhile, gravitated towards impeccably tailored Charvet men’s shirts, a subtle signifier of true fashion expertise. The event wasn’t just for shoppers; it was a gathering place for industry insiders and vintage enthusiasts alike.
A Moment for Madame Grès and Beyond
Amidst the bustling crowd, Alexis Novak of Tab Vintage experienced a particularly poignant moment, slipping into a 1953 Madame Grès gown. The event provided a rare opportunity to observe a piece of fashion history brought to life, a reminder that vintage isn’t simply about aesthetics, but about preserving and celebrating the artistry of past designers. Madame Grès, born Maria Grzeszynska, was a Polish-born French couturier celebrated for her Grecian-inspired designs and masterful draping techniques. The Metropolitan Museum of Art holds several examples of her work, showcasing her enduring influence on fashion.
Kate Barton, displaying her collection of handbags, observed the excitement firsthand as shoppers carefully considered and ultimately committed to their purchases. The market provided a platform for both established vintage dealers and individual sellers to connect with a wider audience. Chamberlain, who also contributed pieces to the sale, emphasized her approach to shopping: “I’m choosing things strictly for vibe—I don’t care about anything else.” Her outfit—a cropped Sandro tweed jacket paired with Double RL denim and a unique handbag featuring a built-in mirror—reflected this philosophy.
Personal Style and Collecting Habits
Paloma Elsesser’s style choices also reflected a curated and individual approach. She wore a Tom Ford-era Gucci knit with a fur vest, a sculptural Junya Watanabe skirt, and Chanel boots designed by Karl Lagerfeld. Elsesser playfully warned a fellow shopper eyeing a Miu Miu cap, “I’m a kooky hat person—if you don’t buy it, I will.” she left with a pair of black Prada briefs and a gray tank from Martin Margiela’s late-1990s “flat” collection, revealing her dedication to collecting specific pieces from the designer’s archive. Margiela’s “flat” collection, known for its deconstructed and minimalist aesthetic, remains highly sought after by collectors and fashion enthusiasts.
Beyond clothing, Astley’s corner offered a selection of vintage home goods, including Elsa Peretti bowls for Tiffany & Co. And colorful Murano glassware. Elsesser’s delight at discovering a silver-scaled fish that doubled as a bottle opener highlighted the unexpected treasures that could be found throughout the market. The inclusion of home goods broadened the appeal of the event, attracting those interested in adding unique pieces to their living spaces.
A Sustainable Cycle and Charitable Impact
A patent black jacket from Raf Simons’s tenure at CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC quickly sold, demonstrating the demand for designer vintage. As pieces were purchased, fresh items were continually brought out, maintaining a dynamic and engaging atmosphere. The market’s success underscored a key principle: at the Vogue Vintage Market, fashion isn’t static—it’s constantly circulating. The event also held a significant charitable component, with 100% of net proceeds benefiting the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and the Center for Youth Mental Health at NewYork-Presbyterian.
The Vogue Vintage Market, with eBay as the official vintage and pre-loved partner, wasn’t simply a shopping event; it was a celebration of fashion history, personal style, and sustainable practices. It demonstrated the enduring appeal of vintage clothing and accessories, and the growing awareness of the importance of supporting charitable causes. The event’s success suggests that the demand for curated vintage experiences will continue to grow, offering a compelling alternative to fast fashion and a unique opportunity to connect with the past.
Looking ahead, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund will continue to support emerging American designers, providing crucial funding and mentorship. Further details on the fund’s upcoming initiatives and grant cycles can be found on the CFDA website. The Vogue Vintage Market’s success signals a continued interest in the intersection of fashion, sustainability, and philanthropy, and future events are likely to build on this momentum.
What were your favorite finds from the market? Share your thoughts in the comments below and spread the word!
