The shimmering fabrics and audacious designs of George White’s Scandals revues defined a decade of American exuberance. While the performers and the music often take center stage in recollections of these legendary shows, the artistry behind the costumes – a blend of Parisian chic and Broadway spectacle – was equally crucial to their success. A recently rediscovered gouache and metallic paint design, dating from 1928, offers a rare glimpse into the creative process behind L’Océan Pacifique, one of the most lavish productions in the Scandals series. This particular artwork illuminates the intricate planning that went into crafting a visual world as captivating as the performances themselves, and speaks to the broader history of costume design for “L’Océan Pacifique”.
The Scandals, running annually from 1919 to 1936, were known for their elaborate sets, catchy tunes, and, crucially, their stunning costumes. George White, a shrewd showman, understood the power of visual impact. He consistently sought out top talent to bring his visions to life, and the costume designers he employed were instrumental in establishing the revues’ signature style. L’Océan Pacifique, premiering at the New Amsterdam Theatre in New York City, was particularly ambitious, aiming to transport audiences to a fantastical vision of the Pacific islands. The show featured a cast of over 100 performers and a score by Irving Berlin, but it was the costumes that truly captured the imagination of 1928 audiences.
A Glimpse into the Design Process
The gouache and metallic paint design, now held by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, provides a fascinating insight into the meticulous planning that preceded the creation of each costume. The artwork depicts a vibrant ensemble, likely intended for a chorus line number. The use of metallic paint suggests a desire for costumes that would shimmer under the stage lights, enhancing the spectacle. While the artist remains unidentified, the style is consistent with the prevailing aesthetic of the late 1920s – a period characterized by Art Deco influences and a fascination with exoticism. The design showcases a blend of revealing silhouettes and elaborate ornamentation, reflecting the changing social mores of the era and the desire for escapism in the wake of World War I.
Researching the Scandals reveals that costume creation was a multi-stage process. Designers would start with sketches like this one, refining the concepts and selecting fabrics. Pattern makers would then translate the designs into wearable garments, and seamstresses would painstakingly assemble the costumes, often incorporating intricate beadwork, sequins, and feathers. The sheer scale of the productions meant that multiple copies of each costume were often required, demanding a large and highly skilled team of artisans. The cost of these elaborate costumes was substantial, contributing significantly to the overall expense of mounting a Scandals revue. According to historical accounts, a single costume could cost hundreds of dollars – a significant sum in 1928.
The Influence of Parisian Fashion
The costume designs for L’Océan Pacifique, and the Scandals in general, were heavily influenced by Parisian fashion. George White frequently traveled to Paris to scout for new trends and materials, and he often collaborated with European designers. The flapper style, with its dropped waists, short skirts, and emphasis on movement, was particularly prominent. Though, the Scandals costumes often took the Parisian aesthetic to an even more extravagant level, incorporating elements of fantasy and theatricality. The show’s title, evoking the allure of the South Pacific, also inspired the use of Polynesian-inspired motifs and embellishments. This fusion of European elegance and exotic flair was a key element of the Scandals’ visual appeal.
Beyond the Glitter: Labor and Representation
While the costumes of L’Océan Pacifique are celebrated for their beauty and innovation, it’s important to acknowledge the labor that went into their creation. The vast majority of the seamstresses and artisans involved were women, often working long hours for relatively low wages. Their contributions were often overlooked, despite being essential to the success of the productions. The show’s depiction of Polynesian culture, while visually striking, likely relied on stereotypes and exoticized representations. Understanding the historical context of these productions requires acknowledging both their artistic achievements and their potential for cultural appropriation. Scholarly articles on the history of Broadway costume design, such as those published in Theatre Design & Technology, often address these complex issues.
Preserving a Legacy of Stagecraft
The preservation of artifacts like the gouache design at the Metropolitan Museum of Art is crucial for understanding the history of American musical theatre. These objects offer a tangible connection to the past, allowing us to appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship that went into creating these iconic productions. The Met’s collection also includes other examples of costume designs and theatrical ephemera, providing a broader context for understanding the evolution of stagecraft. The museum’s website (www.metmuseum.org) offers online access to its collections, allowing researchers and enthusiasts to explore these treasures from around the world.
The legacy of L’Océan Pacifique and the Scandals continues to resonate today. The show’s emphasis on spectacle, glamour, and escapism influenced subsequent generations of Broadway productions. The costumes, in particular, remain a source of inspiration for contemporary designers. As we continue to explore the history of American musical theatre, it’s important to remember the artistry and innovation that defined this golden age of stagecraft. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is currently planning a series of lectures and workshops focused on the history of costume design, with the next event scheduled for November 15th, 2024.
What are your thoughts on the enduring appeal of the Scandals and the artistry of its costume design? Share your comments below, and please share this article with anyone who might find it interesting.
Keep reading
