In the heart of Charleston, West Virginia, the scent of smoked meats and slow-simmered legumes serves as a sensory bridge between the ancestral past and the present. For chef Keyarna Frederick, the act of cooking is less about the final plate and more about the reclamation of history, a philosophy that anchors her third annual Grow and Gather Juneteenth dinner.
The event, which has become a cornerstone of local cultural celebration, transforms a meal into a living archive. By centering the menu on heritage ingredients and community connection, Frederick uses the Grow and Gather Juneteenth dinner to explore the intersections of liberation, land, and the enduring legacy of African American foodways in the Appalachian region.
Juneteenth, observed every June 19, commemorates the day in 1865 when the last enslaved people in the United States were informed of their freedom. While the holiday is a national milestone, Frederick’s approach focuses on the intimate, local scale—how the soil of West Virginia and the traditions passed down through generations of Black families create a specific, regional identity that refuses to be erased.
The Symbolism of the Seed
At the center of the Juneteenth table is the black-eyed pea, a legume that carries profound weight in Southern culinary traditions. For Frederick, these peas are not merely a side dish but a symbol of resilience, and prosperity. In many African American households, the black-eyed pea is traditionally served on New Year’s Day for luck, but its presence at a Juneteenth celebration speaks to the survival of agricultural knowledge brought from West Africa and adapted in the American South.
The process of preparing these legumes is a lesson in patience. Frederick emphasizes the importance of the “pot liquor”—the nutrient-dense liquid left over after simmering greens or peas—which was historically a vital source of vitamins and minerals for enslaved people. By preserving these techniques, she ensures that the culinary intelligence of her ancestors remains active and accessible.
The Grow and Gather philosophy extends beyond the kitchen to the source of the food. Frederick advocates for sustainable sourcing and the use of heirloom varieties, arguing that the act of planting a seed is an act of sovereignty. In a region where food deserts and systemic inequities persist, the ability to grow and gather one’s own sustenance is a modern expression of the liberation Juneteenth celebrates.
A Community Table in Charleston
The dinner is designed to be more than a culinary showcase; it is a space for communal reflection. In Charleston, a city with a complex history of racial dynamics, the gathering provides a rare sanctuary where the Black community can congregate to honor their heritage without the gaze of outside expectation.
The guest list and the seating arrangement are intentional, fostering conversations between elders who remember the struggles of the Jim Crow era and younger generations seeking to redefine their identity in the 21st century. This intergenerational exchange is, according to Frederick, the true “harvest” of the event.
The impact of such gatherings is reflected in the broader movement toward national Juneteenth recognition, which has shifted the holiday from a regional observance to a federal mandate. However, the local nature of the Grow and Gather dinner ensures that the celebration remains grounded in the specific geography and genealogy of West Virginia.
The Anatomy of a Heritage Recipe
While the menu evolves each year, the black-eyed pea remains a constant. The preparation involves a careful balance of salt, smoke, and time. To achieve the depth of flavor characteristic of traditional Southern cooking, Frederick utilizes smoked meats—often ham hocks or smoked turkey—to provide a savory base that complements the earthiness of the peas.
The recipe typically follows a disciplined sequence to ensure texture and flavor:
- The Soak: Peas are hydrated to ensure even cooking and to reduce digestive discomfort.
- The Base: A mirepoix of onions, celery, and carrots is sautéed to build a foundation of aromatic sweetness.
- The Simmer: The peas are cooked low and leisurely with the smoked protein, allowing the flavors to meld over several hours.
- The Finish: A final seasoning of black pepper and a touch of acidity to brighten the heavy, savory notes.
This method preserves the integrity of the pea while creating a rich, velvety consistency that serves as the heartbeat of the meal.
Preserving Appalachian Black History
West Virginia’s role in the narrative of the American South is often overlooked, yet its Black history is deeply intertwined with the coal mines, the railroads, and the fertile river valleys. Chef Frederick’s work contributes to a larger effort to document these contributions through the lens of gastronomy.
By focusing on “foodways”—the cultural, social, and economic practices relating to the production and consumption of food—Frederick highlights how the Black community in Charleston navigated scarcity to create abundance. This culinary resilience is a testament to the ingenuity of those who could transform meager rations into feasts of cultural significance.
| Ingredient | Traditional Symbolism | Culinary Role |
|---|---|---|
| Black-eyed Peas | Luck and Prosperity | Hearty base/Protein |
| Collard Greens | Resilience and Health | Nutrient-dense side |
| Cornbread | Sustenance and Land | Complementary starch |
| Smoked Meats | Preservation and Flavor | Aromatic seasoning |
The Grow and Gather initiative underscores the idea that food is a primary vessel for memory. When a recipe is shared, it is not just a set of instructions being passed down, but a story of where a people have been and where they are going.
As the community looks toward future celebrations, the focus remains on expanding the reach of these gatherings. The goal is to move beyond a single annual event and foster a year-round culture of sustainable eating and historical awareness in West Virginia.
The next milestone for the community will be the planning of the fourth annual dinner, which is expected to further integrate local farmers and urban gardeners to strengthen the link between the city’s soil and its table.
We invite you to share your own family’s Juneteenth traditions or favorite heritage recipes in the comments below.
