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Together with Heleen Kibbelaar, founder of and brain behind SciencemeetscosmeticsPhD candidate in complex fluid systems at the University of Amsterdam, we investigate the facts and fables of the beauty world. From hair care to the sense and nonsense surrounding skincare: we’ve got you covered. For example, do you know which ingredients your skin really needs? Helen gives the redeeming answer.
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Explanation ingredients in you skincare
Just to get straight to the point: the ingredient list of the average beauty product doesn’t really say much. Based on the list alone, it is not possible to say whether a product works well or not, because you need more information for that, Heleen knows: ‘Cosmetic formulas revolve around the synergy between ingredients. An ingredient list says nothing at all about how a product is formulated or how it works. The order of the ingredients on an ingredient list is arranged from the highest concentration to the lowest, but from 1% it can be in any order.’
As you can see from this, there are no ingredients per se you’ll want to add to your skincare routine – it’s all about the amounts and formulation. A hyaluronic acid serum can therefore do wonders, but for the same money it does nothing.
Ingredients in skincare to avoid
Yet there are ingredients that you would rather avoid in your beauty regime, but that’s completely personal. Helen: ‘You obviously want to avoid ingredients to which you are allergic. Furthermore, I think that we free fromculture to let go. All products on the European market are subject to safety regulations, you do not have to worry that there are no safe ingredients in your cosmetic products. You see a lot of the free from silicones, sulfates and parabens claims. These are ingredients that are completely safe, but have been cast in a bad light. A real shame because they are such effective and well-functioning ingredients.’
Heleen would also like to dispel the myth about water (aqua) in your skin care: ‘Aqua is one of the most commonly used ingredients in cosmetic products; it’s just water, which you get on your skin very often and is therefore absolutely not harmful. †
Main skin care products
So what should we use? Fortunately, there is one thing that stands head and shoulders above the rest: the SPF. Heleen: ‘You can use any anti-wrinkle cream, but if you don’t use SPF it’s like taking water to the sea when it comes to the suppleness of your skin. Our skin is supple and elastic due to the network that collagen and hyaluronic acid form in our skin. UV radiation breaks down collagen and hyaluronic acid, making the skin ‘flabby’ and inelastic. That’s how wrinkles are created.’
Also a moisturizer is important: ‘Water from deeper layers in the skin moves up to hydrate cells, which can lead to evaporation of the water. We have of course moisturizing There are substances in our skin such as amino acids, urea and electrolytes that help the skin to retain water. This is also exactly where a moisturizing cream can contribute. A moisturizer ‘locks in’ moisture by forming a physical film on your skin. In this way it also prevents dehydration of the skin. A moisturizer adds water and/or improves water retention in the outer layer of the skin.’
Third, Heleen recommends a mild cleanser with which you rid your skin of grease, dirt and any make-up. Finally, she sees benefit in a serum: ‘Serums often focus on a specific skin problem such as anti-aging, acne prevention or pigmentation. A serum is formulated in such a way that the functional ingredient comes into its own. Serums focus less on skin hydration – what a moisturizer does. It is therefore advisable to first apply a serum and then a moisturizer.’
Advice that we are happy to take to heart, because it not only saves time and money (bye ten-step plan), it also yields the best result. And that is of course exactly what we want.
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