When we talk about vintage fashion, strictly speaking, we are talking about used clothing that is at least ten years old, mostly from high-quality brands or from unusual collections. Particularly sought after: well-known it-pieces from the past that we still know from photos today. In recent years, however, the term vintage has been watered down, so that much younger parts are also traded under this name.
What began in the street and sportswear area with the strictly limited sneaker series from Nike, Off-White or the hype surrounding the Supreme brand is now continuing on the second-hand and vintage platforms. Namely with directly resold new goods, which – similar to the contemporary art market – are traded speculatively for the sake of a quick profit. Those who were not lucky enough to get hold of a particularly coveted item in the current season will usually find the sold-out object of desire on the vintage platforms shortly after the launch. And often from several providers at the same time.
There is also a “grey market” in fashion: the resellers
That’s called reselling. The principle: private individuals or even professional dealers buy the goods at the time they appear in so-called raffles, as the raffles are called. With them, the limited offer is additionally hyped and the purchase becomes a stroke of luck. Professional resellers then buy whatever they can get and resell it online for up to five times the price. Triggered primarily by the needs of the Asian market, however, the prices often do not correspond to the goods: they are too high.
Prospective buyers should therefore be alert and have the necessary expertise. It is important to realize that you only pay a lot more than the original price because of the high demand – and not because of the exorbitant quality. In addition, professional traders naturally want to do their business through the premium. If you surf on established sales platforms such as Ebay or Vestiaire Collective, you will quickly find that the prices differ greatly. Caution is advised if the original packaging and purchase documents are not included or if items from a retailer are for sale in several sizes. It could be fake. You should also always know the original retail price of the product so that there is no rude awakening later.
Chanel’s dad sandal is in high demand
In principle, of course, most luxury brands try to limit this so-called “grey market” and warn against second-hand purchases. Of course, they also give no guarantee for pieces of their collections purchased in this way. But the hunger of the market for certain sneakers, bags or key pieces from brands such as Gucci, Dior, Balenciaga or Chanel that are recognizable at first glance means that the producers cannot keep up with the production despite the enormous prices. One example is the hype surrounding Chanel’s dad sandal (a kind of Birkenstock sandal in quilted leather), which has been one of the best-selling Chanel shoes in various versions for the past two years. Long waiting lists put the fans of the double C to the test of patience.
Chanel
The Dad Sandal “Gate No. 5” by Chanel from the 2022 collection.
The fact that things are always just as valuable as their desirability sometimes leads to adventurous blooms. Be it parts of the current season or “real” vintage pieces that have delighted their wearers for years. My tip: Always set yourself a limit and maybe think a little longer before you strike. Trendy items in particular are sometimes just as quickly out of fashion as they are jazzed up by the market. Investing in real classics is always worthwhile – as long as the price is right. Short-term trends, on the other hand, can be allowed to pass by. With or without double C.