Artisan Sarah Marie L. Bertelsen lives in the capital of Greenland and specializes in the manufacture and embroidery of traditional sealskin boots – kamik. They are ideally suited for extremely low temperatures and are waterproof, they have a soft wide sole that allows you not to fall into loose snow, and they are spacious inside. High, usually knee-covering kamik boots, a fur coat with a hood and wide sleeves, made of deer or seal skin and with a down lining between the layers, as well as trousers – this is what the traditional clothes of the Greenlanders look like.
Traditional costume as a status
In the 19th century, clothing could determine the age and marital status of a person. There were special costumes for unmarried, young wives, older married women and widows. Color also had a certain meaning. So, the girls wore white boots, and after the wedding they changed them to red ones, but widows were supposed to wear black kamiks.
The Greenlandic craftswoman told DW that her grandmother taught her the craft and that it was “very important for her to keep the traditional way of making kamiq”. She also noted that the survival of the indigenous people of Greenland has always depended heavily on women who know how to sew suitable clothes and shoes. Colonization and contacts with foreigners made it possible for the Greenlanders to buy finished products. However, imported clothes do not always correspond to the cold climate of the island. Therefore, several clothing workshops operate in Greenland, and they try to combine traditions and modern fashion trends.
Greenlanders wear national costumes only on special occasions – christenings, weddings, funerals, Christmas, Easter, school graduation. But Sarah Maria L. Bertelsen believes that this is not enough: “I dream that children in Greenland again wear kamiks every day.”
There is already enough work for craftsmen. Recently, the demand for traditional products has begun to grow, especially among young people who want to express their political desire for national independence through clothing. “Young people are becoming more and more proud to be Greenlanders. Many people want to forget about the colonial past and are enthusiastic about traditional attire,” Bertelsen says.
Long colonial history
Currently, Greenland is a self-governing autonomous island territory, which is part of the Kingdom of Denmark. This is the largest island in the world, but its population is small – about 56 thousand people (in 2019), which creates the world’s lowest population density – 0.027 people per square meter. Most people live in large cities on the southwest coast. The largest ethnic group – about 90 percent – are Inuit, and the main occupations are hunting and fishing.
The colonial past of this Arctic region began with the arrival there in July 1721 of the expedition of the Danish-Norwegian Lutheran missionary Hans Egede. He founded a religious mission on the “green island” discovered by the Vikings, and in 1741 became bishop of Greenland. Until 1953, Greenland remained a Danish colony, and since 1979 it has become an autonomous territory. It has its own government and parliament, but many Greenlanders continue to fight for independence.
Historical and political tensions affect the arts as well. The Danish authorities are often accused of suppressing Greenlandic art and culture, as well as indigenous identities. Similar contradictions are reflected in art. During the Danish colonial rule, the local traditional culture was suppressed, and almost ceased to be passed on from generation to generation. The consequences are still being felt today. For example, the practice of tattooing, which the missionaries tried to eradicate, is only now beginning to recover and become widespread.
New book on indigenous traditions
Maria Paninguak Kjerulf is a bright representative of Greenlandic art: sculptor, jeweler, artist. She sees art as “a way of expressing cultural identity and a great opportunity to leave your personal mark on history.”
The latest children’s book she illustrated is about Inuit culture and traditions. This is the story of a girl from Greenland who embarks on an adventurous journey to find herself and discover her powers. The book touches on universal themes, including staying true to yourself. The book is set in an ordinary Greenlandic modern house, but with a lot of Inuit history and cultural traditions. “It’s important to me that the children here in Greenland have an image they can identify with. It’s important that this image – of a Greenlandic girl – is written by a native Greenlandic woman,” Paninguak Kjaerulf said in an interview with DW. it’s important to create, because that’s how we can share our view of the world.”
Traditions in a modern way
Sascha Blidorf is a jewelry designer from South Greenland. She brings a modern touch to her work. “I’m inspired by the colors of the Greenlandic nature. I mix modern and traditional style,” she says. “Through art, I can express my indigenous identity in a more modern way that fits today. I don’t forget my culture and my origins. For me, it’s extremely it’s important to show our art and keep making it.” The craftswoman sells her products all over the world through social networks. Her products can be worn either in combination with a traditional costume or as casual wear.
To create Greenlandic traditional jewelry and clothing, natural leather and fur are usually used. “But we don’t specifically kill animals to make jewelry, just to eat them. Traditionally, we respect nature,” she explains. “During colonial times, indigenous peoples were forced to ‘forget’ their culture and traditions. However, through arts and crafts, we will always remember where we came from and who we are.”
Inuit art flourishes
In Greenland, pottery is not at all developed. But Nuuna Papis Chemnitz hopes to change that. At first, she started making clay crafts as a hobby, but soon opened a workshop in Nuuk. “I like to make pottery to present our culture and Inuit art in a different way, in a way that has never been done before,” says Papis Chemnitz. “It is important for me to show again what we left in the past for the sake of Western traditions. Today I like combine Western material with Inuit art”.
According to the craftswoman, the Inuit have traditionally used Greenland soapstone and walrus ivory to create works of art. Kitchen utensils were mostly made of wood from Canada or stone. As for cutlery, they came into use much later. “Until the age of seven, my mother did not use a knife and fork, but only an ulu (This is a women’s utility knife with a strongly convex blade in the shape of a semicircle. – Ord.)”, – she says. The craftswoman draws and carves traditional Inuit motifs on clay products. For example, a kullik is an oil lamp in the shape of an ellipse or a crescent with a grass wick and seal oil for burning. A kullik symbolizes family, meetings and warmth. Often a craftswoman reproduces the symbol of a successful hunt – a harpoon – a sharp tip used when catching seals.Inspired by the art of Inuit tattoos, the artist applies to her clay products, with the help of earth and soil of a mountain river, points, when looking at which thoughts calm down, and pleasant memories of relatives come, and good things: “The art of the Inuit has been hidden for many years, but now it is starting to flourish,” cheers Papis Chemnitz, supported by Paninguak Kjerulf: “We Inuit in Greenland have so many opportunities to tell our own stories; I hope we will be even more proud of what we can offer.”
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