SWhen fans talk about diving watches with Italian roots, it is mostly about Panerai. Without a doubt, it is a brand with a long tradition and a large circle of friends, but it is not the only watch manufacturer that was founded in Florence. Because there is also Anonimo, better known among insiders and also much younger. The brand was founded in 1997, just in the year when Panerai was bought by the Richemont Group. That left a few watch specialists and suppliers in Florence and the surrounding area – not least a small, fine case manufacturer – for whom Richemont no longer had any use. For the Italian businessman Federico Massacesi and another handful of Tuscan watch enthusiasts, this was an untenable situation. The Anonimo brand was born.
It offers the same Italianità as Panerai, but at comparatively low prices. The Nautilo Vintage model that we presented is cheap for 2190 euros. Even the cheapest Panerai, a Radiomir base, costs more than twice as much. Anonimo is anything but a cheap copy, but comes across as very independent. This can already be seen in the cushion-shaped 42-millimeter case, which is pleasing due to its fine workmanship. The crown has slipped from the classic position towards four o’clock, flanked by a one-sided, crescent-shaped crown protection. The dive time ring with 60 divisions, which can only be rotated counterclockwise, ensures the retro look. However, due to the lack of a minute division between 0 and 15, it is more suitable as an ornament.
Although the watch is pressure-resistant up to 20 bar (200 meters water depth), hardly anyone will take it into the water. With its light brown strap made of Italian leather, it goes better with a dark blue business suit than with neoprene. A solid Swiss automatic movement, the caliber SW200-1 from Sellita, serves as the drive. That convinced us during our wearing test with its steady gait and pleasing precision. And the wearing comfort was also pleasing, not least because of the glove-soft leather strap.
Certina: A tape from the sea, well. Otherwise quite fine.
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Image: Häußermann
We can only say that to a limited extent about the second representative of the retro diving squad. Finally, the Certina DS Super PH500M is supplied as standard with a textile strap that is looped through under the housing for attachment. At 15 millimeters, this increases the watch, which is not exactly flat anyway, by a further three millimeters and also makes it a bit top-heavy. The strap is made of recycled plastic fished from the ocean, soothes the wearer’s ecological conscience, but puts a strain on the wearing comfort. We’d rather opt for an optional rubber strap.
Otherwise there is nothing to complain about at the Certina, on the contrary. The requested price of 860 euros or optionally 895 euros with a rubber strap is well competitive in view of what is offered. After all, the Swatch Group subsidiary delivers a solidly manufactured product with a 43-millimeter stainless steel housing that is tight up to 50 bar (500 meters). The sapphire crystal is anti-reflective, the diving ring is secured against unintentional twisting and can be turned counterclockwise with just light pressure from above.
Even if the DS Super PH500M imitates a model from the 1960s that was used during an underwater research project at the time, it is basically a state-of-the-art sports watch suitable for everyday use. The Powermatic 80.611 movement from sister company ETA with 80 hours of autonomy and an anti-magnetic spiral spring, which is displayed behind a glass floor, speaks for this. We liked the whole package. And the strap can be exchanged easily and cheaply.
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