Allergic City: Borders and Barriers

by Sofia Alvarez

BRIGHTON, England – Step off the train in Brighton and you’re immediately hit by a sensory explosion of colors and perfumes, a feeling of stepping back in time. It’s a city that seems to hold echoes of Graham Greene novels and the vibrant spirit of 1970s Queen.

Brighton offers a unique cultural tapestry, blending historical charm with modern cosmopolitan energy, evoking literary classics and iconic music.

  • Brighton’s Prince Albert Pub features murals of music legends like Bob Marley and Amy Winehouse.
  • The city’s Royal Pavilion evokes an Indo-Saracenic architectural style reminiscent of a 1938 novel.
  • Brighton’s flavor is often compared to “Brighton Rock,” a candy that also inspired a novel and a song.
  • The city is a backdrop for cultural references, from Graham Greene’s writings to Queen’s 1974 music.
  • Brighton is known for its diverse culinary scene, vibrant street art, and iconic landmarks like the Palace Pier.

The Prince Albert Pub stands as a testament to this, a kaleidoscope of colors adorned with portraits of musical icons – Bob Marley, Elvis Presley, Amy Winehouse, Jimi Hendrix. It’s the kind of place where you might see someone posing for a photo in front of a Banksy mural depicting “Kissing Coppers.”

Walking towards the Royal Pavilion transports you further back, its Indo-Saracenic domes creating an atmosphere straight out of a novel from 1938. Brighton’s very essence is captured by the local confection, Brighton Rock, a candy with a flavor of sugar, mint, and a hint of medicine, sharing its name with that very novel and a subsequent song.

One bite of Brighton Rock can feel like stepping into the intricate plot of Graham Greene’s work, while another taste might evoke the soaring vocals and guitar solos of Queen’s 1974 hit, with Freddie Mercury’s voice and Brian May’s Red Special guitar embodying pure virtuosity.

Echoes of Celati and Queen

This blend of influences reflects Brighton’s multifaceted identity. Since 1990, it’s been associated with writer Gianni Celati, known for his evocative prose. The city’s spirit mirrors the narratives of love and betrayal found in Queen’s music, and the redemption of the rushed yet brilliant creation of Queen’s 1974 album, *Sheer Heart Attack*, a masterpiece crafted amidst health challenges and unforeseen events.

Brighton pulses with the energy of young people pursuing their dreams. Strolling through its streets, you encounter a city of pastel hues, distinctive terraced houses, grand Georgian and Victorian villas, and a vibrant street art scene, often with musical themes. Colorful flags flutter in the breeze, symbolizing celebration and shared wishes. Once a renowned seaside resort, Brighton is now a cosmopolitan hub, always welcoming, evident in shops selling rainbow flags for Pride celebrations or giant rabbit figures greeting customers.

A Global Culinary Journey

Exploring Brighton is akin to traversing the globe. Within meters, diverse cuisines, aromas, and flavors converge, making anyone feel at home. Cafés offer delectable English cakes, and the Palace Pier extends into the sea, a place of “fairytale and gypsum,” where the thrilling movements of rides overlook the choppy waters of the English Channel. Relaxing on a deck chair, you might contemplate life, much like the sharp drops of a roller coaster.

Brighton’s beauty lies in its constantly shifting identity. It’s also the city of the WHO, where one can enjoy fish and chips in a pub while police officers manage a lively crowd. The character Jimmy, from the Queen song, finds a parallel in Jimmy from Franc Roddam’s 1979 film Quadrophenia. The film, set in the sixties and celebrating Pete Townshend’s album, depicts the clashes between Mods and Rockers. The Mods’ meeting point in the film was the Royal Albion Hotel, near the Palace Pier, a historic site tragically affected by a fire in the summer of 2023. Nearby, the Sea Life aquarium evokes the setting from Greene’s novel.

Timeless Seaside Charm

On Brighton’s pebble beaches, amidst the sea rides and striped deck chairs, seagulls swoop for fried shrimp. The bright sun and wind create a quintessential seaside experience. It’s a place to find quiet moments, perhaps listening to Sting’s “Love, Reign o’er Me” and “Sea and Sand,” reading a book, or watching children play. The ideal existence, one might muse, would be that of a seagull here.

One might jokingly look for Sting at the Grand Brighton Hotel, much like seeking out familiar filming locations in a beloved movie. Wandering through East Street, each step reveals layers of leisure and cultural references. Amidst the array of shops, you can easily find echoes of the iconic Mods and Rockers’ meeting scene from the film.

Returning to the Pier for sunset, breathing in the uniquely British air, one can’t help but recall Gianni Celati, who found solace in this boundary-free, barrier-resistant city he chose to call home.

A view of Brighton’s iconic pier.
Colorful murals adorn the streets of Brighton.
Seaside scenes on Brighton beach.
The vibrant atmosphere of Brighton’s seaside.

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