Bangladesh’s $40 billion garment industry is taking initial steps toward sustainability, but a significant gap remains between environmental improvements at the factory level and tangible benefits for its 4.4 million workers. While some facilities are adopting greener practices, like water reclamation, systemic issues persist.
A Stitch in Time: Can Bangladesh’s Garment Industry Balance Green Goals with Worker Rights?
The push for eco-friendly manufacturing in Bangladesh’s massive apparel sector faces a critical challenge: ensuring that sustainability doesn’t come at the expense of its workforce.
- Wage theft and payment delays are common problems for garment workers.
- The current minimum wage of approximately $113 per month falls short of union proposals of $200.
- Smaller factories may struggle to afford the necessary upgrades to meet new EU regulations.
- Despite improvements in building safety since the Rana Plaza disaster, worker empowerment remains limited.
Wage theft and delayed payments are widespread throughout the industry. The current minimum wage, 12,500 taka per month (roughly $113), is significantly lower than the $200 advocated by labor unions, fueling frequent strikes and protests centered on pay, overtime conditions, and job security. “Since Rana Plaza, building safety and factory conditions have improved, but the mindset remains unchanged,” says A.K.M. Ashraf Uddin, executive director of the Bangladesh Labour Foundation, a nonprofit labor rights group. “Profit still comes first, and workers’ freedom of speech is yet to be realized.”
The pursuit of a greener industry could inadvertently worsen existing inequalities. The sector is largely comprised of smaller factories, many of which lack the financial resources to invest in necessary upgrades. These upgrades are becoming increasingly critical, as the European Union plans to require companies to address human rights and environmental concerns within their supply chains beginning in 2027. Without these improvements, businesses risk exclusion from key markets.
Efforts to clean up the Buriganga River, for example, represent only a partial solution to a much larger and more complex problem. Addressing the systemic issues within Bangladesh’s garment industry requires a holistic approach that prioritizes both environmental responsibility and worker well-being.
