RUnfortunately, adtouren does not consist of an endless chain of moments of happiness. Whenever the next steep climb comes into view, the question arises as to whether there could not have been less strenuous ways of getting to know a region. But once the hill has been climbed, satisfaction comes. And anticipation – not only for the rushing descent, but also for the impending little breather, during which you can let your eyes wander over the landscape that is now lying at your feet.
What a phenomenal panorama awaits after the climb between Lechbruck and Roßhaupten in Pfaffenwinkel in Upper Bavaria was not to be expected: in the background the peaks of the Alps, in front of it a meadow valley dotted with flowers, into which the dirt road meanders in wide bends. The feeling of happiness is perfected by the two picnic benches, which could not be better placed. One would have to be crazy not to stay here for at least half an hour.
This vantage point in the Pfaffenwinkel is located in a historic landscape area, the core of which corresponds to what is now the Weilheim-Schongau district. For cyclists, the area is both a challenge and a discovery. So far there have only been a few carelessly patched together routes, i.e.: cycle path signs along any routes, paths and forest aisles, anything but a comfortable cycle path network.
Source: Infographic WORLD
Now the region wants to position itself as a cycling paradise – an aspiration that those responsible had not even considered until recently. For decades, they had assumed that hardly any cyclist would want to do the arduous ups and downs in Pfaffenwinkel, so they focused on other target groups. Luckily that is changing: people are now jumping on the active tourism bandwagon and opening up to cycle tourists and e-bikers, which are becoming increasingly important.
Peace and quiet – you can find them in the Pfaffenwinkel
The most important prerequisite for inspiring the cyclists is given: the landscape is a small sensation. Wherever you look, the world still shines with the pastoral charm of the agricultural age – gently undulating pastures everywhere, on which cows, horses and sheep stand. In between, unwooded hilltops with striking individual trees, field crosses and wayside chapels. If you are looking for peace and a bit of a perfect world, you will find it in the Pfaffenwinkel.
The priest in the name is due to a density of historic churches and monasteries that is second to none. The regional flagship of this sacred landscape is the famous Wieskirche from 1754.
The Wieskirche from 1754 is part of the Unesco World Heritage
Source: picture alliance / picture agency online/Widmann
The Unesco World Heritage site with its amazingly low bell tower is particularly impressive on the inside: Thanks to its filigree and colorful furnishings, the church is one of the most beautiful rococo churches in Germany – and with a million visitors a year it can almost compete with the nearby Neuschwanstein Castle.
Thanks to the colorful interior, the Wieskirche is one of the most beautiful rococo churches in Germany
Quelle: picture alliance / imageBROKER
The area owes its originality above all to the rather harsh mountain climate. The above-average amount of precipitation and the large proportion of raised bogs and wet meadows have prevented an agricultural industrial turnaround to this day; heavy agricultural machinery would simply sink into the soft ground.
While the rural areas of Germany in many places, especially in the east, have turned into endless wheat fields and agricultural steppes, the traditional permanent grassland still dominates in Pfaffenwinkel – the most attractive optical contrast to the rocky realm of the Alps that you can imagine.
Architectural highlights are the monasteries
However, there is room for improvement in the smaller villages of the Pfaffenwinkel. Apart from the atmospheric old town areas of Schongau, Weilheim and Steingaden, it is difficult to find traditional town centers in the country with a good quality of stay and lively shopping culture. It is particularly bitter to stand thirsty in front of one of the venerable Bavarian inns that have long been closed and are twilight behind blind window panes while cycling.
The Marienplatz in Weilheim – one of the villages with a pretty old town
Quelle: picture alliance / imageBROKER
The sacred building fabric is treated all the more carefully. Although the religious tradition is beginning to fade here too, none of its material evidence is left to decay. Especially not the opulent monastery complexes, even if there can be no question of their original use for a long time.
They are not only the architectural highlights of a region that is otherwise poor in sights, but also the beacons of local identity that can be seen from afar. Finally, the abbeys were also places of education, which brought about an economic and artistic boom.
Wessobrunn, here the monastery church with Roman tower and fountain, is worth a visit
Quelle: picture alliance / imageBROKER
The Benedictines of Wessobrunn, for example, trained sculptors, painters and plasterers, who had their hands full, especially in the 17th and 18th centuries. Magnificent baroque and rococo furnishings were considered a tried and tested remedy against the sober Protestantism of the north. Another eye-catcher is Schlehdorf with its monastery, which dates back to the year 763 – one of the most magnificent baroque complexes in the Pfaffenwinkel.
Improved bike paths should attract active vacationers
In view of the wealth of sacred sights, it is not surprising that tourism professionals initially advertised with art and culture and at best regarded the natural qualities of the region as a mere bonus. However, because active holidays are overtaking traditional sightseeing and refreshment tourism, a trend reversal can now be observed.
In order to meet the new demand, three circular pilgrimage routes have already been laid out in recent years, on which the hiking experience can be combined with a visit to religious sites. In addition to spirituality, slowness has recently become one of the keywords in destination marketing.
The view is free: cyclists on the banks of the Ammer near Weilheim
Quelle: picture alliance/imageBROKER
The latest project, however, is the aforementioned revision of the 15-year-old cycle path concept. They now want to improve and highlight the quality of the cycle routes: the Ammer-Amper cycle path, which has been developed close to nature, for example, or the passage that leads between Peiting and Steingaden through picturesque green hills with scattered individual farms.
Not to forget the lake-rich moor landscape west of Seeshaupt. Here you don’t meet any cars and have both at the same time: You are actively on the move and have the calming feeling that time stands still.
Bike tours lead to places of modern art
In order not to leave it to chance that the guest finds the most beautiful routes, the local tourism association is currently developing four new large circular routes, which will also lead to places of modern art such as the Buchheim Museum and the “Stoa169” stele park.
And because riding on nature trails is a trend, the range for gravel bikers, i.e. for people who ride multi-terrain bikes, has now been massively expanded. In addition, new cyclist-friendly rest areas will be created as well as virtual information points where cycle tourists can obtain background information, for example on the moors, their geology, their mythical world and their importance for climate protection.
Now you can also call the Yellow Angels when your bike breaks down
Nobody wants flat tires and jumped chains on a bike tour. The ADAC is now remedying the situation. Members can now also contact the Yellow Angels in the event of a two-wheeler breakdown.
Source: WELT/ Merle Giesel
The model for the new offensive is the nearby Württemberg Allgäu, which was recently recognized by the General German Bicycle Club (ADFC) as one of the best cycling regions in Germany. The breakthrough there was the designation of the almost 500-kilometer-long “Allgäu cycle tour”, a tour offering to “natural treasure troves” that leads right through the hills, always with an Alpine panorama.
However, the forthcoming rise of the Pfaffenwinkel to a cyclist’s paradise is also due to a development over which those responsible have little influence – the unprecedented career of the e-bike, which seems to have been made for the hilly foothills of the Alps. It is therefore foreseeable that the area will not only be characterized by church towers in the future, but also by all kinds of e-bikers.
Tips and information for Pfaffenwinkel in Bavaria:
Getting there: By train to Landsberg/Lech, Schongau, Weilheim or Seeshaupt. It is not possible to take bicycles on the bus in Pfaffenwinkel.
Accomodation: “Gasthof Hirsch” in Lechbruck, inexpensive traditional house in the center, double room from 64 euros, hirsch-lechbruck.com; “Hotel Vollmann” in Weilheim, comfortable old town hotel, double room from 108 euros, www.hotel-vollmann.de; “Landhotel Kirchberger” in Wildsteig, quiet location, double room from 135 euros, landhotel-kirchberger.de
Bike tips: There are bicycle/e-bike rental stations in every larger town, as well as repair facilities.
Further information: pfaffen-winkel.de
Participation in the trip was supported by the Pfaffenwinkel Tourist Association. You can find our standards of transparency and journalistic independence at axelspringer.com/de/Werte/downloads.