Beautiful Local in Bad Soden

Beautiful Local in Bad Soden

Jyoung people in an old house: a good combination. For example in Bad Soden, district of Altenhain, on Langstrasse. There is a building there that was the Gasthaus zur Krone for a long time and is now called Bellas Lokal after the operator and head chef Isabelle Pering. Guests see her at work as soon as they walk in, in a large open kitchen.

Jacqueline Vogt

Department head of the Rhein-Main editorial team of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung.

Pering opened her restaurant a few months ago. Anyone who knows their stations (training at the Kempinski Falkenstein, then Opus V in Mannheim, The Table in Hamburg, briefly the Gustav in Frankfurt, then a caterer) can get an idea of ​​what they did. which is provided in multi-star establishments and is neither necessary nor expedient in a low-threshold establishment. Add a good pinch of imagination and a good sense of taste and you have an idea of ​​what is served in Bella’s restaurant. In the restaurant, the walls are bright white and the simple furniture is made of dark wood. The cutlery is lying on the bare tables, the serviettes are not folded but lie crumpled up in front of the plates, arranged deliberately as if casually.

Kohlrabi with Swedish milk

The menu is small and to the point, changes regularly, the dishes are described in the minimalist way that only names the ingredients, the produce is largely local, a amuse mouth will not be served. The sourdough bread is homemade and is listed as an item on the appetizer menu, so you should definitely order it.

You have to have the courage to serve kohlrabi with Swedish milk, which is actually no more: translucent fine slices of raw vegetables, Swedish milk on top and a few leaves of sorrel, done. This serves as a reminder to see and appreciate the good in the simple; whether you have to visit a restaurant for it: a matter of opinion. Something else is more interesting and better. For example, a beef tartare with apple and elderflower, one sous vide cooked and then grilled, juicy duck breast, the side dishes are original: braised rhubarb stalks, which are like asparagus to the side of the poultry, chard, a hollandaise; a dish without classic carbohydrate additions, modern and convincing. Also very good: Spelled risotto with finely sliced, fried, braised and fermented onions, among which garlic plays a non-penetrating main role.

We recommend the desserts in their relaxed, aromatic style, example: a ganache made from white chocolate with a dumpling of asparagus ice cream, a few small cubes of champagne jelly and plucked brioche (main courses up to around 30 euros). Very friendly service, wine list with lots of nice sparkling wines. Conclusion: feel-good cuisine with a cutting-edge character.

Bella’s local, Langstrasse 15 in Bad Soden. Telephone: 0 61 74/9 52 91 41, opening times: Thursday to Saturday and Monday from 6 p.m., Sunday from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday rest days.


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