2023-05-13 09:11:08
Dhe tour starts in Radolfzell, the first town on the lake when you come from the west. The train pulls into platform six and you’re already standing on the lake shore. The old town is on the other side of the train station, because the city fathers of the 19th century really wanted to see the railways directly on the lake: they had a vineyard dug up and the site for the train station filled up.
What was all the rage back then is now a disadvantage when it comes to marketing given the obstructed view of the lake, but it is a plus for all cyclists who come by train: you can explore the medieval streets, visit the cathedral and have a coffee on the market square drink – or just cycle directly to the Mettnau peninsula, where two lidos await.
After checking everything out, head north out of town. At Stahringen, a wide view opens up over gentle hills and apple orchards to Überlinger See, as the north-western part of Lake Constance is called.
Source: Infographic WORLD
At the end lies Bodman, the first destination of the tour. The lake also got its name from here. From the Middle Ages it was called, at least in German-speaking countries, after the imperial palace in Bodman – and Lake Bodman became Lake Constance.
Controversial sculptures by Peter Lenk from Bodman
The place is not only the home of the Counts von und zu Bodman, but also the adopted home of the rebellious sculptor Peter Lenk. His sculptures are known far beyond the lake: for example his spicy caricature of the former “Bild” boss Kai Diekmann on the facade of the former “taz” building in Berlin.
Most recently, his modern Laocoön group made headlines. A sculpture with the Prime Minister of Baden-Württemberg Winfried Kretschmann as the central figure, who – naked except for a fig leaf – wrestles with a snake-shaped ICE. It is intended to be a comment on the controversial construction of the Stuttgart 21 underground station.
Bodman is one of the places where cyclists set sail and can shorten the tour
Source: dpa-tmn
The people of Stuttgart didn’t want to tolerate the provocative work of art permanently in front of their city palace, so it traveled back to Lenk’s sculpture garden in Bodman, where it can be seen clearly when you look through the fence. Guided tours are available by arrangement.
Lenk’s work will also enrich the next stages of our journey: the “Ship of Fools” was created at the community center in Bodman, and a triptych called “Ludwig’s legacy” at the harbor square in the Ludwigshafen district. Both are flat reliefs. “Yolanda”, meanwhile, is a plump lady – this sculpture on the Ludwigshafen pier was created by Miriam Lenk, his daughter.
In the early season there is still space on the cycle path
The bike runs quickly in the direction of Überlingen. Legendary frescoes can be admired at the entrance to the new Überlinger Uferpark. Created for the state horticultural show two years ago, it is now a free delight.
It’s a cloudy day in the pre-season, when there’s room for everyone on the cycle path: it will be full especially during the summer holidays, which start in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg in 2023 at the end of July.
View from the old town of Überling to the tower of the Gothic Minster, the symbol of the city
Source: dpa-tmn
The last steering of the day rises up as a fountain on the Überlinger Landungsplatz. A disgruntled horseman with ice skates, who bears a striking resemblance to the writer Martin Walser, is enthroned on top.
Überlingen with its gothic cathedral, the lovingly planted gardens and the promenade is worth an overnight stay. The clever people of Überlinger had the train station set behind the old town and lower down so that – unlike in Radolfzell – their view of the lake remained unobstructed.
The oldest open-air museum in Germany
The next morning you will pass quiet yacht harbors and the baroque church of Birnau to the Pfahlbaumuseum in Unteruhldingen. It was one hundred years old in 2022, the oldest open-air museum in Germany.
Bored teenagers shuffle towards the museum, three school classes will be guests this morning. Nevertheless, Prof. Gunter Schöbel, Director since 1994, takes the time to talk. He emphasizes the historical dimension of the finds: the pile dwellings have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011, and 111 sites in six Alpine countries have received the coveted title.
Since 2011, the pile dwellings in Unteruhldingen have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Source: dpa-tmn
In the museum find original finds, outdoor reconstructions. 23 buildings show different house types. It was built with everything that could be found on the shores of the lake: oak and beech for the beams, twigs for connections, reed for the roof. Life in the Stone and Bronze Ages is demonstrated in the huts. The students seem more attentive now.
Lake Constance was a coveted place to live early on, with its mild climate and rich fish stocks. The transport of goods over the water with sailing shops was much more comfortable than over land. Wood from the Bregenzerwald went to the winegrowers in Meersburg, grain from Swabia to Appenzell. Always across the lake, which could be life-threatening in the event of fast-moving thunderstorms: a number of barges disappeared with man, mouse and cargo in the floods.
The most beautiful part of the cycle path on Lake Constance
A dark wall is piling up in front of the Bregenz mountains on this day. With the regular boat from Hagnau to Friedrichshafen you should just escape it, that’s how we calculate. The route along the main road is one of the less attractive sections of the cycle path anyway. But the last stop with tarte flambée and a glass of white wine at the Rebgut Haltnau near Meersburg was probably too long – the ship is sailing without us.
The Lake Constance cycle path also runs through Friedrichshafen
Source: dpa-tmn
And so we cycle to Friedrichshafen and from there continue towards the wall, which is becoming increasingly black. Last dramatic photos at Montfort Castle in Langenargen. Then: Big drops, gusty winds, at least no lightning. The jeans stick to your legs and it becomes uncomfortable. We are accordingly happy to arrive at the hotel. In the evening, we are rewarded with a painted sunset at the harbor on the Wasserburg peninsula – as if nothing had ever happened.
Idyllically located: the Wasserburg peninsula
Source: dpa-tmn
In the morning there is a second encounter with the writer Martin Walser (we remember the disgruntled rider in Überlingen). In the Museum in the Malhaus lets study his career from a family of innkeepers in Wasserburg.
Wasserburg is already in Bavaria. From here it is worth planning plenty of time in addition to cycling. For example for the Lindenhofpark, where there is an exclusive seaside resort. Or for Lindau with its Hinteren Insel, also a garden showland from 2021.
The Aeschacher Bad in Lindau was built in 1911. It is one of the last historically preserved stilt baths on the lake and is open to the public
Source: dpa-tmn
Now follows the most beautiful part of the Lake Constance cycle path: out of Lindau, across the border to Austria, from Lochau to Bregenz. The path is wide and open to the lake, free footbridges and bathing stairs abound. On the green strip between the bike path and the main road, people bathing and working outdoors are resting with their laptops.
Sunset at the port of Bregenz
Source: dpa-tmn
Bregenz is always a pleasure – what a laid-back city! In the large lido, young people do backflips from a standing position or run in hordes out onto the jetty, a stone’s throw away from the festival stage, which can be visited freely during the day.
In the evening people meet at the harbor steps, the lake seems far away and the sunsets are spectacular.
In Switzerland, cyclists are squeezed in
The next day you think you are in a Venetian lagoon: the extensive Rhine delta, swampy and with a number of ponds, is a nature reserve. A stork on approach for landing sails just overhead and wagtails cross the gravel path on the embankment.
The most beautiful section of the trail in Vorarlberg is followed by the ugliest, right after the cycle bridge to Switzerland. Behind the noise barrier to the motorway, the cycle path leads along a ditch, bordered on the right by a thick fence.
In Switzerland, the cycle path is fenced off over long stretches
Source: dpa-tmn
The fence manufacturers have to earn a living in Switzerland: the cycle path has been efficiently fenced in, and it’s squeezed in between tracks, fields or private gardens. Again and again he crosses the rails, from the lake you can rarely catch a glimpse.
An overnight stay in the venerable community of Arbon is a must, as the Romans already built a fort here. It’s wonderful in the “Wunderbar”, the former Saurer factory canteen with a view of the lake.
On the last day, it goes along the Swiss lake shore to Constance. The statue of Imperia greets you at the port. Cast from concrete and weighing tons, it has been turning unmoved on the level house for 30 years.
It was a nocturnal stroke of genius by an old acquaintance on the Lake Constance Cycle Path: Peter Lenk. One morning she was suddenly there, now she is a landmark. The circle of this bike tour also closes with artist Lenk.
The Imperia statue, created by the sculptor Peter Lenk, is enthroned at the port of Constance
Source: dpa-tmn
The Seehas, the regional S-Bahn, bridges the last twenty kilometers back to the start in Radolfzell. You can treat yourself to so much luxury at the end of the day. After all, the speedometer shows 177 kilometers.
Tips and information:
Getting there: With the Bahn it is easy to get there, because many of the places on the lake are connected to the rail network.
Tour planning: The Lake Constance cycle path, including the Untersee, is 264 kilometers long and there are few inclines. If you want to cycle the entire route, you should plan eight daily stages – but it can also be done faster. It is recommended to drive the path clockwise. A bike tour book is worthwhile for variants. More information can be found at bodensee-radweg.de.
Tip: You can take a shortcut on the entire lake with the spa boats. Information on routes and timetables at bsb.de.
Overnight stay: Almost nothing happens spontaneously at the lake, especially not during the holiday season. If you do not want to sleep in the tent you have brought with you, you should book accommodation for the trip in good time. Or entrust yourself to one of the cycle tour operators, who often also offer luggage transfers – this way you cycle with less ballast.
Anniversary: The Lake Constance Cycle Path was initiated in 1983, five years later the fully navigable path was opened. More information about the history and the events in the anniversary year can be found at bodensee-radweg.de/40-jahre.
Now you can also call the Yellow Angels when your bike breaks down
Nobody wants flat tires and jumped chains on a bike tour. The ADAC is now remedying the situation. Members can now also contact the Yellow Angels in the event of a two-wheeler breakdown.
Source: WELT/ Merle Giesel
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