MILAN, June 15, 2025
From dallas to Durini: The Autry Revival
An underdog story, Autry, the Texan sneaker brand, is poised to open its first Italian boutique in Milan, just steps from the iconic Piazza San Babila.
- Autry,initially launched in Dallas in 1982,is experiencing a massive resurgence.
- Italian entrepreneurs Marco and Alberto Doro spearheaded the brand’s revival in 2019.
- The brand’s turnover jumped from €3.8 million to €114 million in five years.
- autry’s success has attracted investment from Style capital, lead by Roberta Benaglia.
- The brand is expanding its retail presence,with Milan’s via Durini as its latest destination.
The vintage sneaker brand, Autry, once faded into obscurity, is now valued at almost half a billion dollars, and it’s not stopping there. From its humble beginnings in Dallas, Texas, in 1982, Autry is staging a remarkable comeback. The brand’s journey from the American Southwest to the heart of milan’s fashion scene is a testament to the power of a well-executed revival. The story of Autry is a manual example of how you take a vintage brand and turn it into a business of hundreds of millions.
Born in Dallas with a focus on tennis,running,and basketball shoes,Autry quickly gained traction with its clean design and the iconic stars and stripes flag. It even collaborated with tennis players like Bob Lutz. However,like many brands,it eventually faded,perhaps overshadowed by giants such as Nike and Adidas.
The turning point came in 2019, when Italian entrepreneurs Marco and Alberto Doro saw the potential in the forgotten brand. They focused on retro lines, quality materials, and a clean aesthetic, which resonated in a market saturated with overly complex sneakers. This back-to-basics approach proved to be a winning formula. In just five years, Autry’s turnover skyrocketed from €3.8 million to €114 million, with a profit margin nearing 40%.
In 2024, Autry entered the Style Capital portfolio, the fund led by Roberta Benaglia, known for orchestrating the success of Golden Goose. The fund acquired 68% of the capital, valuing the brand at around €325-350 million. This marked a new chapter, with physical retail becoming a key focus.
What’s driving Autry’s success?
The first real test of physical retail debuted with a store in Soho, London, in April 2025, followed by a location in paris’s Marais district in May. Now, Milan is next. The brand is set to open its first Italian boutique on via Durini, in the former north Sails spaces, a stone’s throw from Piazza San Babila.
Meanwhile, Autry continues to strengthen its presence in premium department stores, including Rinascente Duomo and Triton in Italy, and Bon Marché and Galeries lafayette in France. Production is based in Indonesia, with operational headquarters in Dolo, near Venice, and strategic operations in Villafranca di Verona. This efficient chain has been key, with Europe accounting for 80% of the brand’s turnover.
The Italian market represents 25% of sales, with France, Germany, and Spain contributing substantially. While the U.S.market remains on the periphery for now, the brand may follow the path of Golden Goose, which first conquered Europe before expanding into America, while maintaining its distinct identity.
Autry’s value is nearing half a billion dollars, and the brand is aiming for a billion. In a competitive market eager for fresh trends, the Texan shoe brand has succeeded in a small business: being relevant, desired, and, above all, credible.With its new Milan location, Autry isn’t just back-it’s taking center stage.
The Autry Legacy: Beyond Sneakers
The Autry story, from its 1982 launch in Dallas to its resurgence, encompasses more than just stylish sneakers. The brand’s ability to connect with consumer desires is partly due to an expanded vision. Beyond a mere product, Autry is strategically crafting an experience and shaping a narrative. What could possibly come next?
This vision extends beyond the shoes themselves,encompassing a broader lifestyle aspiration. Autry’s success is not solely defined by its footwear, but also by its effective embrace of vintage aesthetics and an associated sense of legacy.The clean lines, retro designs, and the iconic stars and stripes flag all contribute to this carefully constructed image. The strategic placement of stores, like the upcoming Milan location, is a deliberate choice to immerse customers in the Autry world.
The Role of Heritage and Reimagining
The revival of Autry, spearheaded by the Doro brothers in 2019, wasn’t a mere rebranding exercise. The strategy revolved around identifying the heart of the brand’s past and carefully reframing it for a contemporary audience. Marco and Alberto Doro recognized the potential to tap into the growing appetite for retro fashion, offering a compelling choice to the frequently enough-over-designed sneakers dominating the market. This revival is a testament to how brands can adapt to changing consumer tastes.
- Embrace the Past: The Doro brothers honed in on the original Autry heritage.
- Retro Appeal: They built on the popularity of vintage aesthetics.
- Quality Materials: They focused on premium ingredients to enhance the brand’s value.
- Clean-Cut Design: They offered a simple yet timeless design.
Before the remarkable financial growth, the team made choices surrounding the materials, the manufacturing process, the locations, and the distribution strategy. The shoes are now produced in Indonesia, with strategic operations based in Italy. The careful cultivation of an image of authenticity,quality,and timeless appeal is a critically important part of Autry’s appeal.This has aided Autry’s market value to almost a half-a-billion dollars.
autry’s secret lies in the perfect blend of nostalgia and modern design. The brand’s dedication to a classic aesthetic, coupled with strategic business decisions, created a winning formula. Autry is attracting a new generation of customers while honoring its roots.
Expanding the Vision: What’s Next?
As Autry expands its retail footprint, especially with the Milan boutique, the brand’s ambition becomes clear: a lifestyle brand. Beyond apparel and accessories, Autry could explore other avenues such as collaborations with designers or artists, further amplifying its unique brand identity.
autry’s future might involve curated pop-up shops, exclusive collections, and immersive brand experiences that transcend the typical retail model. The success of the London and Paris stores and the forthcoming Milan opening will serve as test cases, informing Autry’s direction in the years to come.Building on the success in Europe represents a perfect opportunity to expand into the United States.
Here are some directions Autry could explore in the coming years:
- Collaborations with designers or artists
- Limited-edition collections
- Pop-up shops and curated experiences
- Further expansion in the United States
Autry’s evolution is a compelling study in brand revival, proving that heritage, paired with clever product designs and precise execution, can achieve remarkable results. The company’s focus on a unique customer experience will ensure the brand’s continued appeal for decades to come.
FAQs
What makes Autry sneakers so popular?
Autry sneakers, with their clean design and vintage aesthetic, are sought-after as they stand out in a market frequently enough dominated by overly complex styles. That approach, along with premium materials, appeals to those seeking a classic look.
How does Autry plan to expand in the future?
The brand will continue to expand via physical retail locations, premium department stores, and possibly collaborations. Autry intends to broaden its offerings and connect with consumers outside of its sneakers.
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