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Breguet Redesigns Marine Watch Dials for 250th Anniversary

Breguet has redesigned its Marine collection dials for its quarter-millennium. It has introduced a hand-guilloché pattern mapped from the Parisian street of its historic workshops alongside repositioned date windows.

Breguet Prices Marine Watches Across Metals and Straps

Louis XVIII appointed Abraham-Louis Breguet as watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815. This marked the beginning of Breguet’s maritime heritage. The updated Marine collection spans multiple metal finishes and configurations, establishing distinct retail pricing points across titanium and precious-metal references. Baseline pricing starts with the titanium versions. It scales upward for the white gold and rose gold models equipped with matching gold bracelets.

Model Reference Material / Configuration Retail Price (EUR)
Marine 5517 (Time-and-Date) Titanium on rubber strap EUR 23,700
Marine 5517 (Time-and-Date) Titanium with metal bracelet EUR 26,900
Marine 5517 White gold on rubber strap EUR 43,700
Marine 5517 Gold references with matching gold bracelets EUR 71,800

Buyers of any piece in the updated range can be purchased with a matching metal bracelet or a new patterned rubber strap that mirrors the guilloché design found on the face. The time-only Marine 5517 measures 40mm in diameter and stands 11.5mm thick. The technical Marine Chronographe 5527 expands to 42.3mm in diameter and a 13.9mm thickness. The titanium model features a traditional dark blue dial. The rose gold version comes with a dramatic black dial.

Breguet Crafts Guilloché Dials with Historic Maritime Pedigree

Abraham-Louis Breguet once ran his workshop at this address and produced the marine chronometers that inspired the collection. The aesthetic centerpiece of the anniversary refresh is the Quai de l’Horloge hand-guilloché pattern. This is a wave-like motif that translates the contours of the Île de la Cité and Île Saint-Louis in Paris into a dial engraving. During a visit to the manufacture in the Vallée de Joux, CEO Gregory Kissling told Brice that the new Marine 5517’s dials are among the most complex the brand has ever made. Serving as the purest expression of the collection, the 5517 is a traditional three-hand piece featuring a date display newly moved to 6 o’clock to enhance overall dial balance.

Breguet Marine 5517 & 5527

The dial layout introduces structural revisions to improve symmetry and legibility. The date window has moved to 6 o’clock on both the three-hander and the chronograph. Across all three metal options, the seconds hands feature a tip shaped into the letter B, serving as a nod to the Bravo maritime signal flag. The Time-and-Date 5517, the Marine Chronographe 5527, the Marine Tourbillon 5577 and the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 are all equipped with screw-down crowns and a 100-metre water resistance rating. None of them are intended for deep-water diving.

Calibre 777A and Calibre 582QA Drive the Marine Movements

Beneath the sapphire casebacks, the time-and-date Marine 5517 retains the in-house Calibre 777A automatic movement. This self-winding mechanism runs at a 4Hz frequency. It features an inverted in-line lever escapement with a silicon balance spring, and delivers a 55-hour power reserve. Its openworked rotor is shaped to resemble a ship’s wheel.

Breguet Redesigns Marine Watch Dials for 250th Anniversary
Photo: luxe.outlookindia.com

The sportier Marine Chronographe 5527 utilizes the Calibre 582QA movement to power its flyback chronograph function. This architecture places chronograph minutes between 3 and 9 o’clock. It places small seconds between 3 and 9 o’clock to preserve legibility while adding a livelier rhythm to the dial. It runs with a 48-hour power reserve, a silicon spiral, and a silicon inverted anchor. The 5527 brings a flyback chronograph function to the same design language.