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Rising star Chappell Roan made her Saturday Night Live debut with a captivating new country song and a series of stunning fashion choices. One standout piece came from Project Runway alum Gunnar Deatherage, a dramatic confection that has since become the talk of the internet.
Deatherage insightfully explained the process behind this elaborate creation on TikTok and Instagram, revealing it was inspired by the alluring world of 1900s burlesque dancers.
In an exclusive interview with PEOPLE, Deatherage shed more light on how he brought this intricate costume to life for one of music’s most exciting artists.
“It’s been such a gift to create such cool, complex things and then let so many people see them!" Deatherage told PEOPLE about crafting Roan’s striking look.
Working alongside Katie Maimi on the bodice and dragonfly wings that jutted out boldy from Roan’s hips, and with Deatherage’s boyfriend, Christopher Minafo, crafting a stunning headpiece, the intricate ensemble took shape over approximately a month. In total, it took around 500 hours for this design trio to bring the look to life.
“It’s actually the most complex look that we’ve done," Deatherage affirmed. "I think a lot of that was because… we were originally thinking that it had to hold up to an hour-long performance. So we really took those precautions to make sure that everything was made really beautifully.”
Deatherage, after witnessing Roan’s Coachella performance – a show that catapulted her career to new heights – reached out to Roan’s stylist, Genesis Webb.
"I think she is so visionary, and she has made such fun calls on when costumes will have their best moment,” he praised. “I trusted her [to make] the decision, and I think that it was really the right move after seeing how beautiful the promo[for[for[for[forSNL]came out.”
The independent designer, who hails from "Kentucky-ana," using both sides of the Ohio River as inspiration before moving to Los Angeles to boost his career, has seen a surge in followers since working with Roan. Project Runway fans will remember him from seasons 9 and 10, as well as season 4 of All-Stars.
Now a successful independent artist, Deatherage boasts a impressive following of around six million across his social media platforms. In addition to his work with Roan, he has designed showstopping looks for other notable figures, including drag queen Pattie Gonia, 21c Museum Hotels founder Steve Wilson, and the red carpet ensemble for The School for Good and Evil author Soman Chainani.
Though Deatherage’s list of dream clients stretches long (including stars like Lili Reinhart and Kasey Musgraves), achieving financial independence as an independent designer has empowered him to pursue these creative collaborations.
“I trust that [my clients] are going to wear the look in a way that’s going to be great for both of us, and they trust that I’m going to create a look that’s going to make them stand out,”
Interview Between Time.news Editor and Fashion Expert Gunnar Deatherage
Time.news Editor (TNE): Welcome, Gunnar! It’s great to have you with us today to discuss your stunning work for Chappell Roan’s debut on Saturday Night Live.
Gunnar Deatherage (GD): Thank you for having me! I’m excited to be here and chat about the process behind the look.
TNE: Let’s dive right in! Your design has captured the internet’s attention. Can you tell us what inspired the elaborate costume you created for Chappell?
GD: Absolutely! The inspiration came from the world of 1900s burlesque dancers. I wanted to create something that felt both theatrical and modern, while also paying homage to a time when costumes were dramatic and striking.
TNE: It certainly delivered on drama! You mentioned that this piece was a collaboration with Katie Maimi and your boyfriend, Christopher Minafo. How did that teamwork come together?
GD: Collaboration was key! Katie tackled the bodice and those stunning dragonfly wings, which were a focal point of the look. Christopher created the headpiece, which really elevated the entire ensemble. Working together allowed us to merge our different styles and strengths, making the final product even more dynamic.
TNE: It’s great to hear about such a creative partnership. The execution of this outfit took quite some time, didn’t it?
GD: Yes, we spent about a month on it, with around 500 hours total. The complexity of the design was definitely a factor in the time commitment. We had to consider not just aesthetics but also functionality for her performance.
TNE: That’s impressive! You mentioned the need for durability, considering it had to last through an hour-long show. What specific challenges did you face in making the costume both beautiful and practical?
GD: The biggest challenge was ensuring that everything was secure and could withstand movement. We had to reinforce certain elements and test how they held up under performance conditions. It was a balance between aesthetic appeal and functional design.
TNE: Sounds like a huge responsibility! After seeing Chappell’s performance at Coachella and how it propelled her career, how does it feel to have your work associated with such a momentous time in an artist’s journey?
GD: It’s incredibly fulfilling! Watching her bring the costume to life on stage was a magical experience. And knowing that this design was a part of such a pivotal moment for her makes all our hard work worth it.
TNE: Chappell’s look certainly sparked conversations online, making it a viral sensation. Do you think fashion plays a significant role in an artist’s brand and presence?
GD: Absolutely! Fashion is a crucial aspect of performance art. It shapes the audience’s perception and can enhance the storytelling of a song. A striking look can become iconic and synonymous with the artist themselves.
TNE: As you continue to design, what are your hopes for your future projects? Do you have any upcoming collaborations you’re excited about?
GD: I’m excited to push the boundaries of design even further. I’m currently in talks with several artists for upcoming performances, and I hope to keep creating looks that not only dazzle but also resonate with audiences on a deeper level.
TNE: That sounds amazing! We’ll definitely be on the lookout for your future works. Thank you for sharing your insights with us, Gunnar.
GD: Thank you for having me! It’s a pleasure to discuss the art of fashion and performance.
TNE: We appreciate your time, and we can’t wait to see what you create next!