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From Jazz Roots to Michelin Recognition: Chef Christopher Cullum on san Antonio’s culinary Rise
san Antonio’s vibrant food scene has blossomed in recent years, earning accolades from critics and diners alike. At the heart of this evolution is Chef Christopher Cullum, whose journey from washing dishes at his father’s River Walk jazz club to earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand for Cullum’s Attaboy embodies the city’s culinary spirit.
Cullum’s path wasn’t a direct line to restaurant ownership. He reflects on a November afternoon, the restaurant closed and floors swept clean, recalling a childhood spent immersed in the sounds of jazz and the aromas of a different era. His story began not with culinary school, but with a family legacy and a deep connection to his hometown. The building that now houses Attaboy once belonged to a barber, a neighbor to Cullum’s attagirla, a “run down chicken shack” as it was playfully described, with a memorable customer quote: “If Olivia Newton and Dolly P. had a lovechild born in the concession stand of an old roller rink with free wifi, you’d have Cullum’s Attagirl.”
These two spaces,Cullum explains,reveal a lot about his approach. He’s a chef who seamlessly blends diverse culinary traditions, from expertly fried chicken to refined caviar service. “Joint is probably not an accurate descriptor for Attaboy,” Texas Monthly noted, calling it “More Paris Bistro Than San Antonio Diner.” For Cullum, it’s a lifelong dream realized.
That dream took root at The Landing, his father’s River Walk jazz club, where a 15-year-old Cullum first aspired to create the perfect burger in 1992. He shared his ambition with his father, Jim Cullum, the renowned cornetist. “I want to go into the restaurant business,” the son declared. jim Cullum, rather than dismissing the idea, proposed a creative exercise: each would brainstorm 14 potential restaurant names.”when we met,he said,’I know you worked really hard on your list but throw it away,'” Cullum recalls. “he said, ‘I found the name. It’s Attaboy.'” A sign bearing his father’s name and legacy still hangs at the entrance of Cullum’s Attaboy, a poignant reminder of the roots of his success.
The restaurant’s evolution has been unconventional. It began in 2010 as an Airstream trailer, eventually leading to the purchase of the Tobin Hill home in 2023 and its conversion into the brick-and-mortar Attaboy. While his father didn’t live to see the Michelin recognition – a Bib Gourmand awarded in both 2024 and 2025 – he did savor Cullum’s signature cheeseburger from the trailer. “There was nothing he enjoyed more than an Alamo beer and an Attaboy burger,” the chef fondly remembers.
Recently, The San Antonio Report sat down with Cullum to discuss his career, his self-taught culinary journey, his James Beard Award nomination, and the remarkable growth of San Antonio’s culinary landscape.
Early Days and a Family Legacy
Cullum’s entry into the restaurant industry began at age 11 at The Landing, where he spent five years washing dishes by hand. “eventually we expanded the kitchen and got a real dishwasher. And then I was in hog heaven,” he says. He quickly ascended through the ranks, taking on every role imaginable – host, bookkeeper, waiter, assistant manager, and manager. It was around age 15 that his passion for cooking ignited. “I was like, ‘This is awesome.’ I fell in love and I knew what I wanted to do.I wanted to make hamburgers and I wanted to do them very well. I wanted to do everything – grind the