In the heart of Ammerschwihr, a village defined by its steep vineyards and historic charm, the restaurant Amsel is evolving. Since its opening in October 2024, the establishment has positioned itself as more than just a dining room; This proves a curated intersection of wine, gastronomy, and community life. Now, the venue is entering a more structured culinary phase with the appointment of Florian Stein as the new chef.
The arrival of Florian Stein in April 2026 marks a strategic shift for Amsel. Even as the restaurant maintains its core identity as a contemporary village bistro, Stein brings a level of technical rigor and international experience intended to sharpen the venue’s culinary edge. His appointment is designed to reinforce the restaurant’s identity without sacrificing the conviviality that has defined the space since its inception.
Amsel is the vision of two partners: Aurélie Fayolle and Rémi Segura. Fayolle, a vigneronne at the Domaine Geschickt, brings a deep connection to the local terroir, while Segura—the 2012 best sommelier of Luxembourg—leads the “Pirouettes” vintner collective. Together, they have created a space where the boundaries between the cellar and the kitchen are intentionally blurred.
A Global Pedigree: The Path to Ammerschwihr
Florian Stein’s arrival in Alsace is the result of a nomadic and rigorous professional journey. After initial training at hotel schools in Audincourt and Arbois, Stein’s passion for the craft was solidified at Les Terrasses de Tournus under chef Jean-Michel Carrette. This early exposure led him to the kitchens of Chambard, where he spent nearly five years ascending from commis to chef de partie, honing a sense of precision and detail under the guidance of Olivier Nasti.
Seeking a broader perspective, Stein transitioned to the team of Emmanuel Renaut, where he developed a deep reverence for the vegetable kingdom and the “absolute freshness” of garden-to-table cooking. This philosophy was further expanded during a year-long sabbatical in Australia, where he immersed himself in aquaculture, livestock, and viticulture, strengthening his direct connection to the land.
Upon returning to Alsace, Stein served as the chef de cuisine of the Chambard Winstub for four years, blending tradition with global influences. However, his most significant international leap occurred in Vietnam, where he led the kitchens of Maison 1888 in Da Nang. Working with Pierre Gagnaire as a mentor and consultant, Stein developed a sensitive, emotion-driven style of cooking. This period was marked by high critical acclaim, including the achievement of a Michelin star in the restaurant’s first year.
The Culinary Architecture: From Daily Menus to “L’Oiseau de Nuit”
Under Stein’s direction, the menu at Amsel is designed to be a living document, reacting to the rhythm of the market and the seasons. The restaurant operates with a specific schedule—open for lunch on weekdays, two evenings per week (Monday and Friday), and one weekend per month—maintaining the intimacy of a village bistro.
The offerings are divided into two distinct experiences:
- The Daily Menu: A three-course meal (starter, main, dessert) priced at 27 €, focusing on fluidity and seasonal arrivals.
- L’Oiseau de Nuit: A more personal, five-sequence tasting menu priced at 48 €, reserved for select dinner services. This menu emphasizes a controlled progression of flavors and a direct dialogue with local producers.
Stein’s commitment to the local ecosystem is evident in his sourcing. The kitchen integrates products from the Ferme Clarisse (asparagus), the pisciculture Guidat (pike), and the Ferme de la Bouille (beef). Other key contributors include the Jardins de l’Oncle Charles for vegetables, Ferme Schwenger-Fuchs for poultry, and Ferme Laurent for cheeses.
A Holistic Experience of Wine and Space
The culinary evolution is mirrored by the atmosphere of the room. The interior blends high-end materials with a “found” aesthetic, featuring a large wood and marble bar, antique parquet flooring, and curated vintage tableware. The space is designed to be inclusive, offering a dedicated play area for children and a customizable children’s menu.
Rémi Segura’s influence is most visible in the restaurant’s glass-walled cellar. Located at the heart of the establishment, the cellar encourages a “decomplexed” approach to wine, where guests are invited to enter, select their own bottles, and engage with the product in a way that feels more like a wine shop than a formal dining room.
Behind the scenes, Aurélie Fayolle ensures the venue remains a hub for local discovery. In addition to her work at Domaine Geschickt, where she manages organic vines, Fayolle distributes beers from the Brasserie Cantillon in Alsace. Her background in arts and subsequent studies in viticulture and oenology have culminated in Amsel—a place designed to foster meetings between locals, vintners, and gourmet travelers.
As Florian Stein settles into his role, the focus remains on a “sincere and living” cuisine. The immediate future for Amsel involves the continued refinement of its seasonal rotations and the integration of guest chefs, maintaining its status as a vibrant, community-driven bistro in the heart of Alsace.
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