Bsee food, reduce pain and stress, increase brain function. In addition, there is talk of an anti-HIV effect, the alleviation of diabetes and the death of cancer cells. And it’s also said to be an aphrodisiac for women. All this – and much more – in one product!
Apparently anyway. Anyone looking for so-called superfoods on the Internet may come across information like this about a tea. A few clicks further: An online shop based in Dubai advertises 250 grams of bright green barley grass powder for just under 26 euros, which has been “energized with the flower of life”. What that means is not explained further.
Superfoods – what is that anyway? For several years, a wide variety of products have been labeled in this way, often associated with allegedly particularly good properties. And in fact, according to a survey, around every second person in Germany sees it as part of a health-conscious diet. It is rarely about fresh goods, it is often about powder, concentrates or other long-life products.
Criticism is also raised again and again. This is reflected in the title of an event at which experts exchange ideas this week in Berlin: “Super(?)foods and dietary supplements – risky or healthy?” The Federal Office for Consumer Protection and Food Safety and the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) invited .
First of all: There does not seem to be a clear answer to the question raised. Whether superfoods are healthy or even recommended depends on the individual product. However, some experts who will be speaking in Berlin call for a critical look in advance. As early as the end of 2020, the BfR spoke of a study of superfoods that was often insufficient for the health assessment.
A “pure marketing term”
The German Food Association clarifies on request: Superfood is neither a legally defined term nor does this term include statements on the health effects of food. “It’s purely a marketing term.” Irrespective of this, superfoods would have to meet the same legal framework and quality and safety standards as other foods. “Regardless of whether it’s apples, yoghurt or chia seeds – all foods must be safe, otherwise they may not be marketed,” it said.
However, Peter Nick, professor of cell biology at the Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), came across products during investigations that he does not consider to be safe, as he said. With his lecture in Berlin he wants to make clear the need for action. “Superfoods usually come from a relatively exotic environment, where they are integrated into a traditional nutritional system, sometimes also into a healing system such as Ayurveda or traditional Chinese medicine.” With the export from the niche to a global market, a lot of knowledge about botany and Dosing gone – that’s when the problems started.
Authenticity check with genetic fingerprint
In some cases, the quantities of only regionally grown plants are not sufficient for the demand in industrialized countries such as Germany and the USA, says Nick. This could lead to (false) counterfeiting: cheaper goods sold under the name of the genuine product. According to the scientist, at least eight different types of oily seeds are traded under the term “Chia”. Originally grown in Mexico, producers in other countries have jumped in the wake of the hype of recent years. This is not transparent to the end user.
“Companies and consumers should be more skeptical, importers check their raw materials,” said Nick. There are often colloquial names for traditionally used products, but no uniform scientific names, which can cause confusion. To resolve this, Nick’s team works in a similar way to the police when looking for criminals: The researchers read the genetic fingerprints of plants and compare the results with databases. According to Nick, such analyzes should be part of quality assurance.
According to the KIT expert, mix-ups can pose a health risk. When examining chia smoothies, for example, his team found basil seeds instead of chia seeds. “Due to the high levels of a toxic substance, something like this shouldn’t actually happen,” said the professor. He also sees dangers in the constantly changing tea trends. According to analyzes, a variety that was advertised as very healthy years ago often did not even contain the supposed miracle substance that was on the package. In one product there was no harmless substitute, but clove leaves, which could be critical for pregnant women. “It just can’t be like that,” Nick said.
The hype often starts on the internet
Apart from such risks, experts also describe problems in enforcing the applicable law when it comes to product claims. According to the food association in Europe, a regulation regulates which health and nutritional claims may be used after the study situation has been reviewed and after approval by the legislator.
Nevertheless, texts like the one described at the beginning can be found on the Internet. Julia Sausmikat, who deals with the topic at the consumer advice center in North Rhine-Westphalia, speaks of a lack of recourse against inadmissible health promises on the Internet, it is virtually a space free of law enforcement. Food control authorities are overloaded. “It is almost utopian to want to control everything.” Many providers are based outside of Europe, so that German authorities are legally toothless.
Companies are increasingly relying on influencers to market superfoods and dietary supplements. These could reach tens of thousands in one fell swoop. “By the time a product is in the supermarket, the trend is actually over. The hype happens before that,” said Sausmikat.
According to the nutritionist, in times of self-optimization and increased health awareness, even a banal product like salt can become a superfood: with the right marketing, among other things, which often creates a connection to ancient healing arts or indigenous peoples. “This serves to serve emotions, and sustainability is often suggested as well. This often cannot be the case due to the transport routes.”
The eye eats with you
Sausmikat said that superfoods apparently serve the need of people in industrialized nations to do something good for themselves in everyday life. “That could also work with a peppermint tea, but nowadays it has to be the barley grass juice.” With products like this one, she observes that the look is increasingly a criterion: the juice is bright green – and therefore an eye-catcher, for example in the photo Instagram platform. A provider advertises on the Internet that the color of the food can be matched to indoor plants with the powder.
By the way: According to Sausmikat, corona kilos can hardly be melted with drinks made from supposed miracle powder alone. Individual superfoods may not compensate for an otherwise unfavorable diet and lifestyle pattern. Consumer centers are not generally against superfoods, but the expert also makes it clear: “The question is, what is it anyway. If you mean local, unprocessed products, there is nothing wrong with that. But there are many other products that take money out of consumers’ pockets.”
The German Society for Nutritional Medicine had already emphasized last year that local foods are on a par with well-travelled superfoods such as chia, açai or matcha in terms of health value. “From a hygienic, social and ecological point of view, they are even superior to the exotic ones,” it said.