Milan Fashion Week concluded Saturday with Dolce & Gabbana presenting a collection that felt, at its core, like a reaffirmation of the brand’s identity. The show, held against a backdrop of recent scrutiny over casting choices, saw the designers lean into the aesthetic that has defined them since their debut in 1985: a celebration of Italian archetypes, albeit with a subtle nod to a new generation. The collection, largely monochromatic, served as a visual statement, a deliberate focus on form and silhouette over fleeting trends.
The move comes after a menswear show in January drew criticism for its all-white casting. Although Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana declined to comment directly on that controversy, the womenswear presentation offered a clear response: more than a third of the models on Saturday were women of colour. This shift, while not a complete overhaul, signaled a willingness to address concerns about representation within the brand’s visual language. The designers themselves emphasized their focus on identity, stating after the show, “Our collections speak to us, our identity, our values.” They reiterated their commitment to creating instantly recognizable clothing, pieces that embody the essence of Dolce & Gabbana without needing a label to declare it.
A Legacy of Italian Archetypes
For decades, Dolce & Gabbana have built their empire on a romanticized vision of Italy. For men, it’s the image of a powerfully built, confident figure. For women, the brand has long favored the tropes of the Sicilian woman – the widow, the mistress, the matriarch – often portrayed with a dramatic flair and a penchant for lace and embellishment. This collection didn’t abandon those archetypes, but rather expanded upon them. A new figure emerged on the runway: the Gen Z hipster, sporting baggy ripped-denim jeans paired with a satin bra-top, a deliberate attempt to connect with a younger audience.
The majority of the collection remained anchored in black, punctuated by strategic pops of color – a red shoe, a scarlet lip, a vibrant green doctor’s bag. The leverage of faux fur was a welcome sign, as Milan and Paris have yet to follow London and New York in implementing a complete ban on animal fur on the catwalks. Accessories included crucifix earrings and baker-boy hats reminiscent of the classic film Cinema Paradiso, adding layers of cultural reference to the looks.
Underwear as Outerwear and a Celebration of the Body
Dolce & Gabbana have a long history of blurring the lines between the sacred and the profane, and this show continued that tradition. The brand has been showcasing underwear as outerwear since the early 1990s, and with evolving societal norms, the focus has shifted from concealing to celebrating the body. Almost half of the models displayed their underwear beneath sheer lace dresses, and one model even sported a white shirt tucked into a pair of bloomers, a bold statement about body positivity and liberation.
The show also drew a notable celebrity attendee: Madonna, who arrived half an hour late, adorned in teal gloves, and took a seat next to Anna Wintour as the singer’s music filled the venue. Her presence underscored the brand’s enduring appeal and its continued connection to pop culture icons.
A History of Controversy and Enduring Appeal
Dolce & Gabbana’s journey hasn’t been without its share of controversy. In 2012, the brand faced accusations of romanticizing slavery after featuring models wearing earrings that evoked blackamoor imagery. The Guardian reported on the backlash at the time. Three years later, shoes labeled “slave sandals with pompoms” (later renamed “decorative flat sandals”) further fueled criticism. The designers also sparked outrage with comments regarding IVF babies and their stance on same-sex parenting. A 2018 advertising campaign in China proved disastrous, leading to the brand being removed from many Chinese-owned platforms and reportedly costing the company a significant portion of its business.
Despite these controversies, Dolce & Gabbana remains a powerhouse in the fashion industry, generating approximately €2 billion (£1.8 billion) in annual revenue. The brand continues to be a favorite among celebrities on the red carpet, remaining the most-worn menswear brand for high-profile events. However, the show did reveal a slight misstep in tailoring, with some garments appearing to be constructed “back to front.”
The absence of some familiar faces in the front row – Lauren Sánchez, who wore Dolce & Gabbana at her wedding to Jeff Bezos, and Melania Trump, a frequent supporter of the brand – was noted, but the presence of Madonna signaled a continued connection to the cultural zeitgeist. The show served as a reminder that Dolce & Gabbana, despite its missteps, remains a brand deeply rooted in its own aesthetic and committed to its vision of Italian glamour.
Looking ahead, Dolce & Gabbana will likely continue to navigate the complexities of modern fashion, balancing its established identity with the need for inclusivity and relevance. The brand’s next collection, anticipated for the men’s season, will be a key indicator of whether this shift towards greater representation is a sustained commitment or a temporary response to criticism. Readers interested in following the brand’s evolution can find updates on their official website and social media channels.
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