Knitted upper in Chiengora yarn based on dog hair, three-dimensional structure of the material that takes the shape of the foot, springy outsole made of mushroom rhizome and rubber – this is how the sneakers of the future look like. Sneakers are now perhaps the most popular type of footwear, without which it is difficult to imagine street fashion, but not the most environmentally friendly.
“These shoes are worn by people of different generations. At the same time, they are not particularly environmentally friendly: they consist of various types of synthetics, they are difficult to disassemble into separate parts and dispose of,” says young German designer Emilie Burfeind in an interview with DW. Therefore, she thought about creating eco-sneakers.
Innovative, sustainable sneakers
Her Sneature (from the English sneaker – “sneakers” and nature – “nature”) is 35 grams lighter than conventional sneakers, they use almost two-thirds less materials, and at the same time they are all biodegradable. “It was important to me that the materials were natural raw materials or waste products that did not use oil and that are degradable and can be returned to the natural cycle of nature,” explains Emily in an interview with DW. In addition, Sneature requires minimal energy to create.
Emily Burfind
So far, this is only a prototype – for mass production, you need to find a partner and refine the materials. And yet Sneature can be considered a real innovation, which has already been awarded a number of awards in the field of design and ecology. “It’s hard to develop something new for shoes because they have to withstand a lot of stress and be durable,” emphasizes Emily. “Sneature is a kind of vision of what shoes should be in the future. But from the prototype to the finished product, still take a big step – there is a long bridge between them.”
Ecostandards – European strategy
To make it easier for designers and manufacturers to overcome this bridge, the European Commission proposed a package of measures at the end of March that should make products in the EU more durable and environmentally friendly. “The time has come to end the ‘take it, make it, break it and throw it away’ model, which is so harmful to our planet, our health and our economy,” said Frans Timmermans, deputy head of the European Commission responsible for the green deal.
It is planned to extend ecodesign rules to almost all categories of goods (except food, feed and medicines), introduce standards for durability, reuse, repair, modernization, recycling and resource efficiency for them. A separate item proposed the strategy of “sustainable and circular textiles”. The goal is to make clothing more durable, made from recycled fibers, free of hazardous materials, and easier to recycle.
QR code on the tag facilitates recycling
Some progress is already in place. Berlin-based startup Circular.fashion is trying to drive sustainable change in the fashion and textile industries by advising firms on the circular economy (or circular economy) based on renewable resources. “We work with both German and foreign fashion companies – they are of various calibers. And the interest from their side is encouraging. I think sustainability, a closed economy is inevitable for all actors in the fashion industry,” notes in an interview with DW Maria Schmidt, who is responsible for media relations at the start-up. This innovative consulting company with 15 employees not only teaches the importance of sustainability in the design, production, sale and recycling of textiles through trainings, but also offers its own digital solution.
Circularity.ID is an online platform that enables the exchange of information between material suppliers, brands, customers and textile processors. In their work, they adhere to the principles of a circular economy, aimed at more rational use of resources and minimization of waste.
Using a QR code, the consumer receives eco-information about the purchased clothes
Circularity.ID is also a QR code on a clothing tag. By scanning it, you can get detailed information not only about what and where exactly the thing was sewn, but also recommendations for caring for it and repairing it. If the consumer decides to part with the boring clothes, he will receive information about where it should be given for recycling or proper disposal. “In this way, we ensure maximum transparency for consumers and the possibility of leaving textiles in a closed cycle,” emphasizes Maria Schmidt. The startup’s goal is to develop and popularize a system where today’s products can become tomorrow’s resources, she adds.
While small steps instead of drastic measures
Today, the startup works with well-known companies and brands such as Zalando, Hugo Boss, Otto, Armedangels and others. In addition, last year, in collaboration with FairWertung eV – a German association of non-profit organizations involved in collecting unwanted clothes – the startup launched a pilot project Closed Loop Pilot . Five firms participate in it, each of which has created a fashion collection taking into account the principles of a closed economy and competent recycling. Items from these collections are equipped with a Circularity.ID QR code. Several cities, notably Munich and Stuttgart, also have smart bins with this QR code, which make it easier for companies to sort clothes and recycle.
“But despite the fact that some companies are already taking steps to green their production, this does not mean fast enough changes. According to our observations, many carry out small pilot projects, but do not dare to make radical changes,” complains Maria Schmidt. “The approach should be different to achieve climate goals, protect biodiversity and create viable loops”. Berlin-based startup Circular.fashion would like to see more things in the fashion industry created according to the principles of the circular economy. Only in this way will the circular economy become the mainstay in the fashion industry and be able to replace the traditional linear system, she concludes.
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