2024-07-22 00:04:30
When we think of “three golds” (yellow, white and pink), we immediately think of the three Cartier rings from the Trinity College collection which is celebrating its centenary this year.
But we also think of the famous Rolex “Tridor” from the 80s and 90s, unique in its kind, with the central link of its President’s bracelet made of three gold! A model that has become rare on the market and whose price has risen significantly in recent years.
Today (it is already a few weeks since the concept was presented, in fact, in Milan (Italy)), it is the turn of Audemars Piguet to present its version of the three golds. A convincing contemporary version.
Avant-garde even since the Le Brassus manufacture reveals its chrome gold with a camouflage pattern, presented in this case on a 34 mm Royal Oak model that it completely adorns, mixing yellow, gray and pink gold. A prototype for the moment.
Always in search of new material, Audemars Piguet has developed a new precious assembly which is the subject of a patent. Like the polychrome ceramic revealed at the beginning of the year, this new chrome gold is obtained using SPS (Spark Plasma Sintering) technology which makes it possible to significantly reduce the sintering time from several hours to a few ten minutes.
To create this “three gold” camouflage pattern, the different colors of gold are first transformed separately: the gold is melted then the droplets are frozen by atomization to convert them into powder.
Each powder is then carefully placed in a circular graphite mold in the desired pattern. The mold is then sintered with a powerful electric current directed by the graphite.
This current generates a great increase in temperature, which allows a very fast sintering, together with the mechanical pressure on each side of the mold, resulting in a disc showing the different colors of gold distributed according to the defined pattern powders.
A first in the watchmaking sector, this process requires perfect mastery of SPS technology and involves many tests to find the right distribution between the different colors of gold to obtain the desired aesthetic.
In addition, the compression of the gold powders during the sintering cycle makes each piece unique as the pattern varies slightly from one model to another. Despite these differences, the production process ensures visual consistency between the various components. A case, bezel, or bracelet can be created with each disc produced, which reinforces the unique look of the whole.
The various components are then pre-polished and pre-soaked before being carefully finished by hand to obtain a variation of satin surfaces and polished chamfers, a trademark of the Manufacture. These finishes enhance the play of the light characteristic of Royal Oak and allow the nuances of yellow, gray and pink gold tones to express themselves.
« This multicolored gold opens a new chapter in the exploration of precious materials to offer new aesthetics to our creations and therefore to our customers. » concludes Lucas Raggi, Research and Development Director of Audemars Piguet.
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