The sun, palm trees, emerald water … Before us is not the Cote d’Azur, as it may seem at first and subsequent glances, but the German island of Mainau on Lake Constance. It is roughly the size of the Vatican. Every year this island is usually visited by about 1.2 million people – lovers of exotic plants, butterflies and garden art.
Attractions of Lake Constance
Lake Constance is located in the Alpine foothills on the border of Germany, Austria and Switzerland. In total, there are about a dozen islands here. In addition to Mainau, the monastery island of Reichenau, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as the island of Lindau with the Old Town, are especially famous.
The first human traces on the island of Mainau date back to the third millennium BC, as evidenced by the remains of pile dwellings found near the shore. Note that there is a place on Lake Constance where such dwellings have even been reconstructed. This open-air museum is located in Unteruhldingen and is another World Heritage Site in the region – in addition to the already mentioned monastery island of Reichenau.
Mainau Island from a bird’s eye view
Embankment of the island of Mainau in the spring during the flowering of crocuses
Map of part of Lake Constance with the city of Konstanz, as well as the islands of Reichenau – in the center and Mainau – at the bottom right
In Germany, Mainau is known as the “Island of Flowers” or “Flower Island” (Blumeninsel Mainau). Due to the mild climate in these places, plants characteristic of the Mediterranean and subtropics feel good. There are about five hundred different species of trees and shrubs alone. As for flowers, in spring, for example, tulips, daffodils and hyacinths delight the eye …
A short course in the history of the island of Mainau
Mainau has a rich history. Let’s start with the fact that the island often changed owners. In 1928, it became the property of the Swedish royal family by inheritance. Now it belongs to the foundation founded by Lennart Bernadotte (1909-2004) – the son of Prince Wilhelm of Sweden and the Russian Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna – the granddaughter of Alexander II. Until 1932, Lennart Bernadotte had the title of Prince of Småland, which he lost after entering into an unequal marriage with the daughter of a manufacturer, Karin Nisswandt.
The photograph below from 2017 shows the daughter of the count, she is the current director of the Bettina Bernadotte Foundation, presenting a commemorative medal in honor of her father, who, in addition to landscape art, also achieved great success in film and photography.
Bettina Bernadotte shows a commemorative medal in honor of her father – Count Lennart Bernadotte
A still from Norwegian traveler Thor Heyerdahl’s 1950 documentary Kon-Tiki, which won two Oscars. At one time, Lennart Bernadotte carried out – technically complex – copying Heyerdahl’s amateur 16mm films onto professional 35mm ones, so to speak, paving the way for Kon-Tiki to Hollywood
Queen Silvia of Sweden accompanied by German relatives – Countess and Count Bettina and Bjorn Bernadotte on the island of Mainau in 2019
The island is home to a baroque palace and an 18th-century chapel built on the site of a medieval castle at the time when Mainau was in the possession of the Teutonic Order. In 1806, under Napoleon, the order was abolished, and the local possessions of the Teutonic Knights passed to the newly created Grand Duchy of Baden.
After the overthrow of the monarchy in 1918, the island remained in the ownership of the House of Baden. After some time, it was inherited by Victoria of Baden, who was married to the Swedish king Gustav V. After her death, Mainau passed to her son, Wilhelm of Sweden, who in 1932 handed it over to his son Lennart Bernadotte, who had just lost all titles due to morganatic marriage, which we have already mentioned.
In the center on the palace facade is the coat of arms of the Teutonic Grand Master Clemens August of Bavaria (1700-1761)
Palace and chapel on an old postcard
Ceiling fresco in the chapel on Mainau Island
In summer, agaves, cacti and bougainvillea are also exhibited on the so-called Mediterranean terrace, in addition to various exotic palm trees. Brugmansia and hibiscus bloom here in July, and passionflowers in August. This photo was taken in the spring at the height of the tulip season.
Having received this semi-abandoned island in management, Lennart Bernadotte almost immediately opened it to the public – for a fee. In 1951, he bought Mainau from his father and continued to pursue his dream even more purposefully – to create a beautiful park here. In the same year, Charlotte, Grand Duchess of Luxembourg, granted him a new title – Count of Wisborg.
The palace facade is still decorated with the coat of arms of one of the Teutonic Grand Masters – Clemens August of Bavaria (1700-1761). For more than five centuries, the center of one of the commanders of this German spiritual and knightly order was located on the island – a kind of local administration. Throughout Europe in the Middle Ages, there were about three hundred of them.
To complete a short course in the history of Mainau, we note that until 1271 it belonged to the abbey of Reichenau, to which it was donated in the 8th century. The Teutonic Order received it as property from one of the monastery ministerials – so to speak, who greatly exceeded his authority, but the abbey did not dare to go against the Teutonic Knights. As a return gesture, his two sons were accepted into the order.
Although the island became the property of the Swedish royal family at the beginning of the 20th century, the Swedes left their traces here during the Thirty Years’ War. Leaving Mainau in 1649, they took away many different valuables from here – 4.5 million guilders. This amount was more than enough, for example, to pay the annual salary of 90,000 soldiers.
Butterflies, orchids, dahlias, roses…
When visiting Mainau, you should definitely look into the Butterfly House – the second largest in Germany. There are up to a thousand copies of about eighty species here – mainly from South America. Several hundred dolls from Costa Rica, Great Britain and the Netherlands are delivered here every week. There are also many local butterflies on the island – they flutter everywhere, because the conditions for them here are simply heavenly.
One of the so-called Swedish crosses – crucifixes that were installed in Europe at the behest of the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand III after the end of the Thirty Years’ War. This cross is near the bridge to the island
One of a whole group of such flowering ducks on the island of Mainau
Walking paths in the middle of the flower beds – top view
The island can be reached by car, by bus from Konstanz or sailed directly to the pier on tourist boats that go here from different places on Lake Constance
In the Palm Greenhouse, where every year in March-April a large exhibition of orchids takes place. Twenty species of palm trees grow here, including the 15-meter-high Canarian date, planted in 1888. The island also has a Peacock Pavilion and a small zoo where you can pet goats and ponies.
Although not a million roses grow on the island, it is still a whole sea. In total – about 30 thousand bushes, and the number of varieties is about twelve hundred. In September-October, people come here to admire the dahlias (German: Dahlien), which grow here about 20 thousand bushes – 250 different varieties.
Orchids in the Palm Greenhouse on Mainau Island
Butterfly from the glass family on the island of Mainau
What is a flowery island without roses…
Dahlia varieties “Karma Fiesta”
Autumn alley on Mainau island. This time of year is also very picturesque.
All year round, from sunrise to sunset
The entrance to the island is open 365 days a year from sunrise to sunset. When planning a visit, you should pay attention to the calendar of events – from concerts to various gardening seminars and gastronomic evenings.
Today, the island of Mainau is one of the main attractions of Lake Constance. Caring for such a heavenly place is not cheap. Children under 12 do not need tickets. In the main season in 2022, admission for schoolchildren and students costs 14.00 euros, for adults – 23 euros. Family ticket – 47.00 euros.