One gave shape to the most exciting sculptural works of art of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, the other represented the Renaissance of Italian viticulture, but no one before had thought of aging wine in marble. Today at Ledoyen of Parisristorante tre stelle Michelin of the chef Yannick Allenòit was presented Fuori Marmo, the first wine in the world aged in Altissimo marble (Seravezza) from the Fuori Mondo winery on the Tuscan coast. Galeotta was an end of Lockdown dinner in Versilia. In addition to the French chef were present Paolo Carli of Henreaux di Seravezza and Olivier Paul Morandini. The latter has a past as a lobbyist in the EU parliament and is the man who invented the European 112, the security service for all EU citizens. In 2009 he discovered Tuscany and a farm in Campiglia Marittima, he coincidentally the only Renaissance village in the Maremma. He begins making wine with the idea of freshness and verticality.
«I followed an idea, a leitmotif of monovarietal wines that links the Tuscany of Sangiovese to the Piedmont of Nebbiolo and then again to the Jura and Burgundy». On this idea of minerality Allenò asks: «Have you ever thought of refining wine in marble?». A provocation, almost a boutade which instead is taken up by Paolo Carli and Morandini. We start thinking about the project after five months of work, the first marble amphorae-barrels are born. They cost €100,000 each. They are treated internally with tartaric acid but nothing more. The producer supplies a Cabernet Sauvignon matured and harvested on vines at about 200 m on the Tuscan coast of Campiglia Marittima which dominate the Tuscan archipelago up to Corsica on Tramontana days. After two years of refinement, the first bottles are ready. About 1000 with 120 magnums and 80 double magnums. The classic Bordeaux bottles will cost 1000 euros each. The wine is elegant, taut, vertical as desired by the producer. Not without that suggestion of minerality that refers to marble. Alain Ducasse’s man of wine compared it to the reds of Tinos, a Greek island where there is marble dust in the soil. Someone has gone so far as to compare it with Chateau Lafite. Certainly as well as a novelty that the whole world of wine will discuss a new Italian excellence was born.
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November 25, 2022 | 3:18 pm