Gucci’s new artistic director debuts in Milan with his first fashion show – International

2023-09-22 20:18:00

Gucci’s new artistic director, Sabato de Sarno, made his debut at the brand, this Friday (22), in Milan, with his first fashion show, a classic and feminine collection with which this brand wants to give a new boost to sales. from the French groups Kering.

Far from the eccentricities of his predecessor, Alessandro Michele, De Sarno, 40 years old, brought austere and timeless designs to the catwalk, with which he intends to embody a return to Gucci’s origins.

The models paraded in different leather pieces, long skirts, monochromatic jackets and striped shirts, in a show that was hosted by British musician Mark Ronson and in which Hollywood celebrities such as Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling participated.

The color palette also went from gray to navy blue, from black to white and burgundy, the true guiding thread of this collection, titled “Ancora” (“Still” in Italian).

“The story of a whole, the story of a whole that still expresses itself through joy,” explained De Sarno about the spirit of his collection.

The presence of countless people dressed in leather provoked criticism from animal protection groups, whose activists showed a poster at the end of the parade with the message “Ban exotic skins”.

At the last minute, Gucci was forced to change the location of the show because of rain that hit Milan. Before taking place outdoors, the presentation ended up taking place at the Gucci offices on the outskirts of the city.

– “New creative chapter” –

This Naples-based designer’s debut comes at a time of change and uncertainty at Gucci and its parent company, Kering.

Michele’s departure in November 2022 left a substantial void, but the brand decided to replace him with this experienced stylist, who has previously worked for Prada, Dolce&Gabanna; and Valentino.

“Many things are happening at Kering”, explains AFP Luca Solca, a fashion and luxury specialist at consultancy Bernstein, who mentions “the attempt to give a new impetus to Gucci”, “the modernization of the organization of this Italian brand” and “a new management team in the Kering group”.

The appointment of De Sarno as artistic director of Gucci was not the only revealing change at the brand, but also the appointment of Frenchman Jean-Franois Palus as CEO.

Luxury group Kering suffered a 10% drop in its net profit in the first half of this year, to 1.78 billion euros (almost 9.4 billion reais), partly due to a 1% decrease in Gucci sales. .

According to Solca, “the most important change by far is Gucci’s new creative chapter. If this works, Kering will work.”

“Gucci needs new ideas and starts a new chapter. By putting it into practice, it will allow it to increase the number of business and profits as it wants [Franois] Pinault”, owner of Kering, adds this expert.