At the end of January, the new haute couture for the summer will be presented in Paris. If you’re smart, you’d rather invest in master fashion at Christie’s or Artcurial.
French Camille de Foresta is the curator of the hour when it comes to couture auctions.Christie’s
When the haute couture shows take place in Paris at the end of January, that’s not the only reason for fashion addicts to focus on the city. There are also numerous vintage couture auctions in Paris at this time. And don’t worry: You can bid from anywhere in the world, the auctions also take place online.
Thanks to the excellent eye (not to mention the network) of a young curator at the auction house, Camille de Foresta, Christie’s in particular has real fashion blue chips from the last few decades. She actually started out as an Asian arts expert at Christie’s, but then specialized more and more in the vintage fashion market. Right at the beginning of the year, she has put together two auctions that are eagerly awaited by international museums and private collectors alike.
Auction 1: A whole couture wardrobe, from Alexander to Yves
After setting a new price world record for an embroidered coat by Chanel in November last year, Christie’s is now auctioning off further treasures from the wardrobe from which this coat came. Some of the 114 haute couture ensembles start with very moderate starting prices (from 400 euros!). They almost all date from the 1970s, 80s and 90s and clearly demonstrate the exceptional tailoring know-how and inventive brilliance of haute couture. But also the exquisite taste of the former wearer.
The star pieces: a 1979 Givenchy black velvet ensemble with embroidered red lips (the master’s homage to Schiaparelli), a sumptuous mink and suede jacket from Yves Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 1984/85 collection that completes the Lesage decorated with glass jewels; and a purple velvet dress, embroidered by Lesage, from Karl Lagerfeld’s 1988-89 “Tudor” collection.
Christian Lacroix’s evening outfits from the 1990s are as sophisticated as they are timeless, as is the black wool coat with gold buttons, the epitome of Chanel style in winter 1995/96. Also from the Roaring Nineties: a magnificent coat dress with pagoda shoulders by Alexander McQueen made of almond green satin overlaid with black lace, probably a highly coveted lot at this auction. Under “De Chanel à Saint Laurent, une garde-robe haute couture” on the Christie’s website you can admire and bid until January 25th.
Auction 2: My Secret Fashion Show – Didier Ludot
Another spectacular auction will take place on January 26, 2023 at the Paris auction house Artcurial. There Didier Ludot, the prince among vintage dealers, has his personal collection auctioned off. “My Secret Fashion Show – Didier Ludot” is like an encyclopedia of fashion history and brings to light pieces that were long considered lost. Camille de Foresta was guest curator here, since Artcurial does not have its “own” vintage expert.
Alongside countless great couturiers such as Lucien Lelong, Marcel Rochas, Coco Chanel, Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior, this sale features early experimental accessories by Paul Poiret and never-before-seen belts from the 1940s by Chanel and Hermès. Many come from prominent wearers such as the Duchess of Windsor or even from the fashion designers themselves. There are also special gems such as a catalog that Yves Saint Laurent dedicated to his colleague Madame Grès. Here you have the opportunity to study the wonderfully made catalog online and, of course, to place bids. If you get hold of a piece, you are sure to have an authentic piece of fashion history in your closet. Ludot’s name vouches for that.