2024-07-22 19:08:05
One can describe René Redzepi as a philosopher among famous chefs. The Noma restaurant in Copenhagen, where he is the head chef, has been distinguished by creative interpretations of classic Nordic ingredients for 20 years. A Greenlandic musk beef sometimes ends up on the plate instead of the otherwise popular Wagyu beef.
There are also local vegetables, grains and wild herbs. Over the last 20 years, Noma has become the epitome of modern fine dining: Nordic-minimalist interior, air, a way of visiting the restaurant that is intended to be a complete experience; that leaves a mark. And even more than the well-heeled customers, Redzepi has left his mark on Western food culture: without him, fermentation would not have become a food culture.
“Superstar” perfumes are used less
It is surprising how it is stored the series “All Eaters”, which is now streaming on Apple TV, careful with its star, using it more as a rare spice that emphasizes other flavors here and there, not force himself to the front and yet clearly the foundation. The foundation is upon which all judgment rests.
Each of the eight episodes of “Allesser” revolves around food that is more or less natural in our kitchen: peppers, tuna, corn, bananas, rice or coffee. Redzepi himself acts as a reporter, reporting off-screen about the global connections that exist with this agriculture and food production. He is surprisingly rarely seen in front of the camera. Instead, the series follows fishermen off the coast of Spain who make a living from an almost ancient fishing technique, salt farmers in France or a worker on a banana farm in Colombia. Redzepi is rarely on the site. This is a little strange at first glance, because its name is what attracts people to watch the series. But once you get the hold, it opens up a lot of information opportunities that the “Allesesser” then likes to exploit.
Coveted fish: Tuna is prepared in the Omnivore series.AppleTVThe episodes were written by US food journalist Matt Goulding, who worked closely with cult chef Anthony Bourdain until his death in 2018. Bourdain has developed his own style of food documentary: Star chef as world travel hunter , always looking for new ingredients, exciting fresh and authentic food. In this way, Bourdain also represents the world of flavors – suddenly the spices and herbs from the kitchens outside Vietnam are as interesting as the best olive oil from the small farmers of Italy.
In Omnivore, Redzepi and Gould take a different approach to our global food culture. One could almost say: with a scientist’s eye. They are less interested in the flavors than in the economic and cultural connections that arise around a food. The documentary follows the journey of bluefin tuna from Iberia, where it is caught using a traditional method called almadraba, to the fish market in Tokyo, where the fish is sold in bulk. and it is considered to be fattening because of its fat content. “Omnivore” shows people who earn their living from fish in one way or another, either as fishermen, as sushi chefs or as workers in the fish market.
Elena Meza Salas, a salt farmer from Peru, has her fieldsAppleTVAt its best, Omnivore is reminiscent of Anna Löwenhaupt-Tsing’s book The Mushroom at the World’s End. In it, the scientist describes how wounded war veterans and refugees in the forests of Oregon harvest the rare matsutake mushroom, which is a traditional delicacy in Japan and is even used to end family feuds. But Tsing also describes how the fungus can only thrive on soil damaged by poor weeding and how this is almost always possible only in American forests. “Allesesser” is interested in very similar connections, even if the series does not reach the complexity of the book – it is still television after all.
James Bond director Cary Joji Fukunaga was involved in the development
Speaking of which: the pictures you show are impressive. It can be said that James Bond director Cary Joji Fukunaga was involved in the development of Omnivore. It’s rare to find a food documentary with such impressive pictures. But this also means that sometimes you feel like you are in a video clip, especially when the manufacturers of certain products are shown – for example those of the famous Tabasco sauce in the first episode. The aesthetics then contradict your visual habits, because sometimes you don’t really buy the documentary nature of overly varnished images. But you get used to it after two or three episodes. From then on, Omnivore became less like a series where you have to stare at the screen every second and more like a podcast with appropriate visual accompaniment.
A trip to the growing area: Bananas on the way to the local grocerAppleTV“Allesesser” is not much about the document. Goulding and Redzepi did not summarize any hot research. Instead, the series is a kind of essay that promotes a better understanding of what we really buy, cook and eat (or drink) every day. The concept of Noma – discovering and interpreting the environment and the unknown – is also everywhere: for example, when Redzepi raves about 1,500 varieties of bananas in an event and raises the right question of why almost one of supermarkets (and then also provided a surprising answer).
Ultimately, this shows the many different ways food connects us with each other. Let it be a shared punishment after eating a very hot chili, which brings together the guests and the staff of Redzepi’s restaurant in the first event; is the aforementioned fishing that connects a Spanish fisherman with a Japanese sushi chef of honor; or bananas, which connects us viewers with the Colombian plantation workers and because of which we have been organized in Latin America. All this does not make René Redzepi another Anthony Bourdain; But that’s exactly what makes “Allesesser” so attractive: the focus is on science and not on the personality of a celebrity chef – a completely contemporary personality.
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