I have lived in Palma and this is what I do not recommend seeing or doing in the capital of Mallorca

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Don’t ride a buggy

With a medieval layout, the historic center of Palma is an architectural and cultural marvel, and one of the best preserved old towns in the entire Mediterranean. Here every corner is a treasure completely accessible on foot or by bike, in a city where sustainable mobility is increasingly established.. For practicality and because each street, and each alley, is a treasure, the best thing to do to discover Palma is to explore it, walk it, walk it. This is the best way to be dazzled by the patios of old stately homes known as ‘casals’, the good handful of modernist buildings (three local architects, Gaspar Bennàssar, Jaume Alenyar and Francesc Roca carried out modernist works here, although the work of the Catalan architects of the time, Lluís Domènech i Montaner or Antoni Gaudí). When in doubt, the sea is always downhill.

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Not everything is ensaimada

Can Joan de S’Aigo is the oldest and most beloved café in Palma, a place and three historic locations where one of the best ensaimadas on the island is served, but also other delicacies that are worth trying. The almond ice cream is handmade and the fourth, the potato coca (typical of Valldemossa) and the gató are three products that Mallorcans love, even more than the ensaimada.

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In the savory section, in Can Joan de S’Aigo you can also find, in addition to numerous people lining up to sit at one of its coveted tables, the traditional meat and pea empanada, cocarroi or coca de trampó. . Everything that can be enjoyed at the premises can also be ordered to take away, although it is advisable to do so at least two days in advance. Here craftsmanship rules. Can Joan de S’Aigo is one of the 114 businesses considered ’emblematic’, which is a proud badge of collective memory in the city.

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Better a market than a supermarket

It is, quite possibly, the tradition that I maintain most deeply rooted when I return to Palma: a walk through the bustling Olivar market where I can enjoy a delicious llonguet (type of bread) of camaiot (local sausage made with pork) with melted cheese. With a satisfied stomach, it is time to walk through the colorful aisles full of local products as well as the different shops, stalls, local crafts with all kinds of creations made with the traditional Mallorcan fabric, the llengües, the legendary ikat fabric of Mallorca. . Lost in oblivion, a few years ago it returned to the life of Mallorcan homes, and around the world, inspiring different designers on the island; Today it is present in all types of accessories, such as bags, cushions, tablecloths…

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Immersion in the social heart of Palma can also continue in the Santa Catalina market, perfectly integrated into the neighborhood of the same name and which was once a place for fishermen weaving their nets. More modern and cosmopolitan, it also preserves spaces that maintain its local and island personality.

To the list of municipal markets it is worth adding an ecological market that takes place in the Plaza Bisbe Berenguer Palau, although absolutely no local will tell you where that square is unless you ask for the one known as Plaza de los Patines. It is the same, but the issue of name changes is not very well handled in the capital. Tuesdays and Saturdays are the days that this market (or flea market) is located.

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Don’t leave Palma without visiting its museums

The history of Palma is very visible in its streets and shops, but it is also essential to know the artistic legacy that is hidden in its main museums. For me there are two whose visit is essential. The Joan Miró Foundation, located about 10 minutes by car from the city center, is the place to enjoy, and I choose that verb well, the exhibition of the works of the prolific artist, since countless paintings, sculptures and ceramics are distributed throughout the workshops and gardens. The Foundation also displays the artist’s creative spaces, where he lived and worked for almost 30 years.

An old recovered freshwater cistern currently serves to host exhibitions or events. We are now in Es Baluard, the Balearic contemporary art museum, wrapped in a building that preserves the heritage environment of the Renaissance bastion in which it is located. And precisely because of where it is located, it is advisable to enjoy a coffee or a stop along the way in its cafeteria, surrounded by works of art in the open air, although the best of all is the view of the spectacular walls of the city below. Palma Bay.

Much more modest than its peers on the list, the Casal Solleric has always stood out against its artistic competition by designing an attractive program of temporary exhibitions and cultural activities. The best? Which is located in the bowels of a beautiful 18th century palace and in the very center of the city, in what is known as Plaza de las Tortugas, which, of course, is not its official name either.

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And not everything is urban land

The best thing about Palma is that, both as a tourist and as a resident, it has it all. Here the possibilities are almost endless: because in addition to its monuments and history, it also allows you to enjoy a day at the beach, changing asphalt for sand without having to go anywhere, since Palma has the second largest bay in all of Spain, bathed by great beaches where you can relax in the sun or practice any type of sport.

And from sea level to almost touching the sky with your hands thanks to a visit to Bellver Castle, the only circular Gothic castle in Palma, which also offers 360 degrees of fantastic views over the city and a good part of the island. The particularity of this castle is that, in addition to being perfectly preserved, it was erected with a defensive and control function, and its location justifies this objective. Bellver Castle is the only Gothic style castle with a circular plan in Spain and, inside, it houses the City History Museum, perfect for locating us in the historical development of Palma under Roman, Muslim and Christian rule. It is the summary of a dramatic and turbulent history that has given rise to one of the best destinations in the world to visit and also to live.

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