2023-09-10 18:00:13
Towards Castelviel (Gironde), in Entre-deux-Mers, August 8. SOPHIE GARCIA FOR “THE WORLD”
The Entre-deux-Mers region, in Gironde, is the most affected in the Bordeaux vineyards by the overproduction of both reds and whites, which have become difficult to sell. Three winegrowers talk about their difficulties in marketing their bottles, and how they decided to uproot part of their vines, as part of a plan that was both national and regional.
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Sébastien Léglise, in Castelviel: “When I lost a big Chinese client…”
Sébastien Léglise, 48, stands in front of his vineyard, Falgueyret-Léglise, located in Castelviel: 50 hectares stretch as far as the eye can see in this corner of Entre-deux-Mers, which will produce multiple Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur vintages. In 2008, full of hope, he took over the business of his wife’s family. Fifteen years later, he has just submitted a grubbing request for 35 hectares, which corresponds to the average volume of juice that he is no longer able to sell each year. Before 2019, he was selling up to 600,000 bottles a year. Today, he is struggling to sell 200,000. Instead, perhaps he will make cereals.
Sébastien Léglise, winegrower in Castelviel, at the Falgueyret-Léglise estate, in Entre-deux-Mers, August 8, 2023. SOPHIE GARCIA FOR “THE WORLD”
“The troubles started in 2019, with the loss of a very large Chinese customersays Sébastien Léglise. After Covid-19, we had a drop in demand from Asia, and the market never recovered. » And then, he can no longer sustain the price war. “Our competitors offer bottles at 1.50 euros when I have to sell at 3 euros to be profitable”, laments the winemaker. How to do without lowering the prices? “By rethinking the way we work, going outside the box, in order to attract customers. »
In their cellar, Sébastien Léglise and his wife have set up a cozy space with sofas, to receive the public during tastings. They also called on a graphic designer to revisit their labels. The winemaker adds: “Bordeaux is an ocean of wines, but is the brand meets the demand of current customers? » He regrets that the vineyard is distorted by the ubiquitous but aging image of great wines sold at very high prices. “Bordeaux is not just that. »
By reducing the size of his vineyard, Sébastien Léglise intends to focus more on direct sales and ownership. He wants to move upmarket, communicate, develop wine tourism, create events… And, why not, create a gîte. “If you want to do well, you have to do less. But I’m at half my credit, it won’t be easy to repay it. I need to find resources…”
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